have a 2014 Limited with a license plate LED out... not paying $30+ per bulb
I have an idea to fit an aftermarket LED near the existing LED housing, splicing into the factory wiring
may take awhile for me to get this done (lots of other stuff in line ahead of this) but subscribe if interested and I'll make sure I post photos of the process when I do finally get to this
As I recall, the LED housing appears sealed at first. But under closer inspection, you may notice small openings that are not sealed.
A few suggestions include:
1. It may be worth removing the housings and sealing them completely with RTV or some type of silicone around the seam/edges.
2. Ensure all exterior lights are off when going through an automated carwash. Many times in Auto-mode, the lights turn on and if the unsealed LEDs get hit with pressurized jets of water, may be more likely to blow.
I suspect if you carefully open up one of the burned out housings, it would be possible to repair the defective/blown component and have a replacement for the next time one blows. Alternatively, purchase a strip of the newer LED strips that can be trimmed to length at regular intervals. They operate at a nominal ~12VDC so you may be able to remedy the issue by installing these type LEDs behind the stock lens even though the running voltage of our Durangos may be closer to 14VDC.
I've had no issues with mine blowing since the installation of the 2014+ "Race Track" taillights. But I know many have issues.
and mounting them here (see laser dot; one on each side)...
terrible design is you ask me... hard to tell in this pic below, but this gap (roughly 1/4"), behind the camera housing, allows CLEAR access for water to touch wiring, etc... probably where the water gets into the LED license plate lights and racetrack lights... I will be sealing this up with a clear bead of silicone during my LED conversion...
After looking around back there any chance you think this needs to be open to drain anything from above? In any case, looks plenty big for that purpose...something I may look into filling in to protect the camera and wiring/bulbs.
I have not put silicone in this area yet as I originally planned.... Just haven't gotten around to it.... COULD possibly be for draining purposes, but as you mentioned, it's PLENTY big for that
https://www.superbrightleds.com/?gclid=CLH94fHmx88CFYUyaQodYooM0Q
Did you try these?
I actually replaced as many lights as I could with plug n plays from wish.com. To test. They have been working for a year now. Most of my driving is after dark before dusk too. Just saying.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/?gclid=CLH94fHmx88CFYUyaQodYooM0Q
Did you try these?
I actually replaced as many lights as I could with plug n plays from wish.com. To test. They have been working for a year now. Most of my driving is after dark before dusk too. Just saying.
the license plate lights are an LED module that has to be replaced as a whole unit (not just a LED bulb replacement), thus my purpose for starting this thread and coming up with my own fix.
The same thing happened to me. It isn't a bulb but rather the whole small housing is the light. My right one went out and I was at the dealer parts department anyway buying brake pads and I had them pull the part number. If you go to a website like wermopar.com, you can search it. It won't say non-serviceable.
Caskey if you ever put stock lights back in, or anyone else.......if you use Infrared LEDs in this drilled holes.....speed cameras get an over exposed plate that is hard or unable to be read. So for legality....DON'T put in IR LEDs or they may not be able to ticket you....
Sorry, I know it's a really old post but I've the same problem : right light went out 6 months ago, took it to the dealer and he charges me 110$ (Canadian Dollar) !!!!!! 2 days ago left light went out and no way I pay again that amount for a stupid license plate light !!
@caskey_b, could you post again your pictures of the hack please ?
Caskey, (original poster) just curious how your fix has held up? I just did a similar swap and am wondering if removing that little circuit board on the assemblies will cause any electrical gremlins
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