Michael Peyron’s Berber website

Talk about short turn-around time! No sooner had we parted company in Marrakesh with Eric and Michel than this writer had to hunker down for a few days to recuperate, what with five grueling GTAM stages behind him and his cardiac rehabilitation plan into its 10^th month.

There were indeed further Atlas walks just around the corner. Another team from the French Alps were due in Casablanca on June 2, and a formidable combination at that. No less than Yves Biville, late of the Chasseurs Alpins and an Atlas veteran backpacker in his own right, plus his nimble, easy-striding spouse, Cathou.

A pleasant social occasion linked the Zat-Ourika outing and the forthcoming Middle Atlas stint, when, on the evening of Friday, June 3, we wined and dined both parties (the more so as they were no strangers to each other) at our place in Rabat.

June 4^th, 2011 Road to Khenifra

Next morning, in sunny weather, the present writer left for Khenifra with the Bivilles in a Citroen Berlingo van. Just beyond Meknes we had a kebab snack in Boufekrane. Kebab (brochettes in Fr.) snacks in Morocco are no longer what they used to be. Gone the days when one could indulge in memorable brochette stops, sampling tasty skewered meat at unpretentious little bistrots in Settat, Ben Guerir or Khemisset. With the coming of the motor-way and mass motor-travel, swanky eating places have proliferated, announcing a marked decline in quality. Nowadays, it’s usually a case of getting cheerfully ripped off and driving on with a sour taste in one’s mouth!

A long haul followed through the Adarouch pastures and Zaïan azaghar. Some 20 km short of Mrirt a collection of arid, steep-looking hills enabled us to work off our unsatisfactory lunch. For an hour or so we tramped the slopes past herds of sheep and goats beneath greying skies, while thunder growled far to the west.

It was time we were back on the road. The first rain-drops fell as we started off across the plateau S of Mrirt. By the time we were at El Borj it was really coming down in buckets, forcing us off the road for a few minutes till the downpour had spent its strength. Half an hour later, having earlier booked rooms by ‘phone, we were checking in at the “Atlas Zayane Hôtel” in Khenifra.

A strange, rambling building this, it comes within an ace of being a first-class hotel. This writer had never actually stayed there, but the Bivilles, who had been there before, said the place had been improved; largely thanks to a new wing, while the rooms had been re-done in fairly pleasant style. The reasonably welcoming ladies at the reception, however, would do well, when talking to guests, to tear their eyes away from the TV monitors on the wall behind their desk.

Full marks for the finely-appointed restaurant, with an unbeatable view over Khenifra town and cattle egrets winging home from distant, storm-beaten hills, expertly run by a personable young waitress-cum-maître d’. A brief exchange in Tamazight established that she was a tazayyit (woman from Zayan tribe), that our order would be honoured by the chef, and that palatable food would shortly be served. She proved as good as her word and a decent meal soon appeared, washed down with vino.

Two factors precluded early sleep: 1) the night-club which predictably and typically (50% of local hotels’ mark-up is accounted for by late drinking) did its worst, though luckily situated at the other end of the establishment; 2) a crowd of supporters who greeted with cheers each and every move of some foot-ball match in the TV lounge. Meanwhile, it rained most of the night, casting doubts over the morrow’s planned excursion to investigate the hill of El-Gara, some 10 miles E of Khenifra, and a potential Qala’at al-Mahdi site.

June 5^th, 2011Visit to El-Gara

We need not have worried. A hearty breakfast soon sent us on our way under a cloudy sky, but at least the rain was holding off. On reaching Pt-1027 on the Agelmam Azigza road we parked the car on the soft shoulder and lost little stamping off down the muddy track. After a couple of hundred yards a huge puddle involved a detour through olive groves to the R. Past the cactus we went and down a tunnel-like path to cross Asif  Ayt Nuh, then upwards opposite through dispersed hamlet.

Luckily, we met a friendly Berber woman who, on being asked the way to El- Gara, took the trouble to escort us for ten minutes up the slope, before saying goodbye with a brief: “Keep on uphill left to the col, then turn right and you’ll see El-Gara ahead of you.”

We zigzagged upwards through oak and juniper forest into a gully below Aamira’s cliffs (apparently a nesting-site for Lesser kestrels), over a narrow, rocky col. El-Gara hill now in full view about one km to our right. Reaching it entailed negotiating a squelchy path down to the edge of forest; then across open expanse, skirting wheat-field to lone house with satellite dish and corrugated iron roof. A couple of Berber ladies confirmed we were on course.

Now along a broad tree-lined track with wheat-fields to our right. Here we reached another house and were kept on course by a helpful local housewife who suggested we make a bee line for El-Gara, which entailed a downer and an upper across a grassy-steep-sided valley. There followed a thistly field. By now portions of ancient fortification were poking out of the evergreen oak mantle ahead. We had reached a rival Qala’at al-Mahdi site – rival, that is, to Zawyat Ifrane (visited four times by this writer) near Mrirt, and previously judged to be the genuine article.

For the next hour we examined portions of a medieval wall, in places presenting signs of workmanship remarkable for the period, elsewhere in a sorry state of disrepair, especially where the locals had been helping themselves down the years to building material. It was clear that this fortified ensemble had, at one time, cordoned off the entire hill. The most impressive part was a sort of citadel, requiring some energetic scrambling to reach its top, with an almost vertical drop to Oued Chbouka below and a bird’s eye view of Agelmam Oumlil, the surrounding hills and Adekhsan plain to the W. While defences on the Chbouka side appeared impregnable, it was clear that a determined enemy could launch a decisive assault across wheat-fields on the W flank of the hill; which was probably the angle of attack chosen by the Almohads when they wrested this fortress from the Almoravids.

 

Or, at least, that is the version preferred by French researcher Arsène Roux, who (like this writer) judges that Zawyat Ifran and the Tisgdelt plateau (some 15 km NE of Mrirt) better fit historical descriptions of the Qala’at al-Mahdi site. According to Roux, El-Gara was merely a large Almoravid fortress built at a slightly later period than the 11^th -century Qala’at al-Mahdi. However, Dumas, another Frenchman who visited in 2004 with local man Saïd Jaafar, is convinced that El-Gara is the genuine Qala’at site. Serious archeological investigations on both sites will obviously be required before the enigma can be unravelled.

Leaving El-Gara hill to its choughs, ravens, vipers, sheep and goats we struggled back down through the oak forest, and reversed that morning’s route across wheat-fields, walking at a slightly faster pace in an attempt to beat the rain. Making excellent time we nonetheless lost the race to king-size thunderheads that discharged their contents within 10 minutes of where we’d parked the car. Long enough to get well and truly soaked.

We managed to dry off in the car with the heater on and headed N for Azrou, where we’d booked rooms at the “Hôtel des Cèdres”. We shared the place with a few other tourists, including two middle-aged, visibly naughty-weekending French couples who dropped in for dinner at the downstairs restaurant. Then it was early to bed in centrally-heated rooms.

June 6^th, 2011 From Azrou to Oued Zloul

As we left Azrou next morning white clouds were sailing past in a blue sky with the temperature down to 2°C. A first stop at Ougmès revealed an almost empty, castle-like Emirati Euro Camping ground. From the brochures handed out by local staff we gathered the establishment catered mostly for boozing, gut-bashing European senior citizens during the winter months; plenty of parking space for their camping cars, at any rate.

Driving on, we stopped at the “Green Door” in Ifran to purchase a couple of bottles of the local vintage as you never know when the vino can come in handy in this kind of freak spring weather! Sure enough, once we’d admired stilts and great-crested grebes at Dayet Awa, unwelcome clouds and the first rain-drops invited themselves to our picnic lunch near Oued Sebou.

Pushing on we arrived around 2pm at the house of our Berber friend Ayad Kerouach, near Oued Zloul at the foot of the Ahermoumou escarpment. Our initial plan to drive on up to the Taffert Hut went up the creek as Ayad talked us out of approaching Bou Iblan, given the present, unsettled weather and negative reports regarding condition of access road. Oh well, some you win, some you lose. You can’t win them all!

So we decided to ride out the unfavourable weather. In the meantime, to work up an, appetite for dinner, Ayad took us for a walk through the surrounding countryside. He seemed particularly heartened by signs that pressure from man and beast on the local vegetation appeared to have abated somewhat.

June 7^th, 2011 Bou Iblan foothills

 Next day prospects were distinctly brighter with a cheerful combination of cloud and sunshine evenly distributed across the sky; so after breakfast we boarded the ‘Berlingo’ and made for the hills.

Rather than head off hell-bent for the main Bou Iblan range, Ayad suggested we attempt Ich Ramouz (2.365m), one of its NE outliers, via the Beni Sohan Forestry Hut and Mdawd village.

The subsequent outing developed into a classic, adapting-to-the-weather exercise. At first, all went smoothly. Reaching the Forestry Hut we kitted up and headed through the mixed growth forest towards Mdawd. En route we admired some wild boars frolicking behind a chicken-wire fence – apparently a game reserve of sorts where, for a consideration, wealthy “sportsmen” could come up from Fez and blast the living daylights out of the hapless local swine. Some “sportsmen”…

In fine fettle we strode energetically along the track, reaching a shallow col above Mdawd in less than half an hour. It was now 11:00. The sun was high and bright, everything seemed fine and dandy, while the present writer was apparently making light of the gradient. Beyond some isolated houses and gardens with a profusion of vine, cactus and fig, Ayad led the way up a rough trod over gradually steepening slopes to the left (ENE). Above us loomed Ich Ramouz. At that moment as they made for the heights, a small group of Berber muleteers overtook us, and we exchanged greetings. Ominous clouds were now gathering above. At 11:40 the first squall hit us. Visions of wandering, soaked and spirited, across the Ich Ramouz slopes rapidly convinced us that discretion was the better part of valour. Back down we went while the Berber muleteers disappeared above into the lowering cloud-base.

Rather than lamely descend to Mdawd, Ayad worked his way right till we hit the tree-line – actually a vast pine plantation clothing entire NE slope of Ich Ramouz. The upper portion consisted of Canary Island pine, the remainder of Aleppo pine. This part was fun? Wrapped up to the eyes in foul-weather gear we galloped downhill, twisting and turning through the trees. As a former forester Ayad had completely recovered his woodland feel and expertly guided us from spur to spur, across intervening ravines and forest paths, the ground comfortably carpeted with pine needles. Occasionally, we would stop and gaze back uphill to where the cloud-base had dropped even lower. “Good thing we weren’t caught back up there in those clouds!” Yves shrewdly observed.

Half an hour later, to conclude our “raiders of the pine forest” stunt, we emerged from a final stand of Canary Island pine onto wheat fields which we skirted till the dirt road (tufna < Fr. ‘tout venant’) was reached. The Forestry Hut was just beyond. Bunching together under a large pine tree to escape on-going drizzle we settled down to a well-earned picnic.

The meal over we pushed on along the tufna track to Beni Zehna, but rain and mist remained unrelenting. There was nothing for it but return tamely to Ayad’s house in the Zloul for more of his lavish hospitality, dry out by the fire-place and read a book till dinner.

June 8^th, 2011 Tizi n-Tigoulmamin

Next day finally dawned fine. But after breakfast our, paths diverged: Ayad had to go down to Fez on business; we had been planning to make for Skoura n-Ayt Seghrouchen to check out a new lodge we’d heard about. On Ayad’s instructions we followed the narrow, winding Zloul road towards El Aderej, turned off right after a few miles and headed towards Oued Mddez. All plain sailing until the road became a track and we found, ourselves bumping down towards the river. After crossing the Mddez there was more dirt track before we found the tarmac of the Tazouta-Skoura road. Apparently all the fuss was connected with a dam-building project. Saw congregation of about 60 Black kites and Rough-legged buzzards along this stretch of road, seemingly attracted by some nearby carcasses.

Ahead of us, bathed in bright sunshine, rose the gaunt backbone of Jbel Tichchoukt as we sped along the road with hardly enough space to pass on-coming vehicles, of which there were mercifully few. We then drove through what has to be one of the densest concentrations of olive-groves in Morocco, till suddenly around noon, we were at the entrance to Skoura. Aiming to park somewhere near the Tadout plateau that overlooks Skoura, we turned sharp left up the slope, following the tarmac past the main square with its taxi rank. Then uphill again, noting for further reference a very steep track and signpost indicating “Gîte Skoura”, until a couple of km beyond Skoura we reached a turning in the road with plenty of parking space on the right, near entrance to track leading to Tadout Forestry Hut.

After a brief picnic we kitted up and looking beyond thinly wooded slopes to Tichchoukt main ridge, noticed a likely-looking notch standing out proudly against the azure sky, at the point where it declined to the E, actually Tizi n-Tigoulmamin. This, we decided, would be our afternoon objective.

After an initially uninspiring boxwood gully, open fields lying fallow and an occasional sheep or two in the distance, we zigzagged up gentle slopes sparsely strewn with evergreen oak. Plenty of grass about, though, actually increasing as we gained altitude. Above the tree-line, the slope evened off, ushering us onto a spacious grassy bowl with several herds of sheep and goats grazing in the vicinity.

Tizi n-Tigoulmamin derives its name from the tarns that adorn it – one of them still filled with water on this occasion, and a sign that it had been a rainy spring. After saluting some friendly young shepherds and their surprisingly mild-mannered dogs, we crossed the pasture and followed an obvious trod trending right at the S end of the pass. Half way up the slope we crossed some rocks and emerged onto the ridge proper. We’d been walking a couple of hours or so – quite enough for that day. Before returning we admired the stupendous view, this being the first truly fine day in a week! Tichchoukt continued SW and up into the blue; we could see to the N the arid Mddez plain; due E to cloud-veiled Bou Iblan and S to El Mers, towards which snaked the ribbon of road we’d followed on foot back in 1984, when it was still a track. The times they are indeed a-changin’!

We retraced our steps uneventfully across the pass, past a few scrawny trees and eventually to the car left unattended by the roadside. Nobody had touched it. Now to see what this new Skoura lodge was like. Off we went down towards the village. In no time we were confronted with the aforementioned signpost and an uncompromisingly steep, stony track. Launching our plucky little ‘Berlingo’ uphill we climbed with some trepidation for about half a mile until we were just below the edge of a cliff, down which spattered a sizeable waterfall.

We now discovered a small, red-brown, Kasbah-like building – recognizable as the gîte from photos seen on the Internet. Despite the unprepossessing track we had made it to home base with no apparent damage to our vehicle. Parking space, however, is at a premium, not that this gîte could handle more than three car-loads of guests at any one time! As it was about 5pm we decided to unload our things, looking forward to an early dinner and quickly to bed.

June 8^th, 2011 (evening), Skoura gîte

Wrong address for that kind of expectation, I’m afraid; the situation took time, a lot of time to unwind. In fact, the whole operation was handled in a delightfully casual, informal manner, so much so, that we felt we were dealing with out-and-out amateurs who’d suddenly decided to go in for inn-keeping.

We had booked by ‘phone, someone whom we’ll call Mostafa handling our call. Naturally expecting to meet the aforesaid Mostafa we climbed up to the lodge, only to find it empty. After a few minutes a middle-aged Berber woman, Rkia by name, appeared and informed us that Lhoussein would soon arrive. That worthy put in an appearance another five minutes later and friendly conversation in Tamazight ensued. Yes, of course, we could settle in; and early dinner, no meat, just vegetables or eggs? Why, of course, no problem, ur illi ca n muckil! A youth now appeared and he introduced him us to as: han u-tada nu, “this is my milk-brother”; all nice, informal and friendly.

From the terrace of the lodge, dodging occasional spray from the waterfall, we gazed uphill at steep slopes, terraced fields, hill villages and the Tichchoukt main ridge. Lhoussein waxed eloquent: “You’re only spending one night? What a pity! Come back next year and we’ll visit these hills together!” Shortly afterwards he disappeared, promising that we’d have dinner well before 8 pm – and we never saw him again – not that we ever got round to seeing the elusive Mostafa, either!

Lhoussein had gone and left u-tada holding the baby. So we relaxed on the plush cushions and carpets of the main guest-chamber. Well, after dark, around 8 pm, we strolled upstairs to the kitchen and discovered that a quite unexpected cooking staff – u-tada, his hijab-wearing fiancée and a handsome, swarthy middle-aged lady – were preparing a totally different dinner from what we had ordered.

Well, to cut a long story short, we eventually dined quite nicely around 9:30 pm and then repaired to bed. The bed-room, compared with the amateurish fumbling of the staff, was all that tired back-packers could have hoped for. Curtained windows, wall-to-wall carpets, comfy little rug-covered beds – a real gem! A lot of thought had obviously gone into designing this lodge, as we noticed when visiting the bath-room. Flushing toilets, efficiently-working taps and wash-basins, purpose-built showers with ablution stools, the sanitary arrangements couldn’t be faulted. In fact, we sensed that the whole operation must be master-minded by some big-city Moroccans with a bent for the wilds and who visited occasionally with their friends and/or families. It was just a pity the local staff were so dilatory in their approach to inn-keeping.

June 9^th 2011 Return to Rabat

After an excellent night’s sleep u-tada served us a perfectly adequate breakfast, we paid the bill (about DH 300,- per head), loaded up the car and left by mid-morning. A picnic lunch in the Ifran cedar forest was our last taste of the middle Atlas before we settled down to the long, hot drive back down to Rabat, which we reached around 5 pm.

 

michael.peyron@voila.fr

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tour Operator Watch n° 14: May 2011 

After a brief stint around Midelt and Khenifra in mid-April, not to mention various walks through the Middle Atlas (cf. Tour Operator watch n° 13), the spring of 2011 afforded further opportunities to grasp various facets of the on-going tourism scene in Morocco. While a dire drop in actual number of tourists following the Marrakesh bombing had been feared, things didn’t turn out quite as bad as expected. All the same, we felt we had to try and beat the bombers by carrying on undaunted with Atlas mountain-walking. 

So we went out and did just that.

Midelt-Imilchil-Bilouidane, Eastern & Central High Atlas May 13-16 

Our outward bound party of four people in two cars made a first stop in Azrou. No tourists in sight. At the terrace to the Hôtel des Cèdres, however, we met an elderly Frenchman, claiming to have married a Moroccan woman who told us he had opened a gîte under the sign of Chez Ali Baba, at Souk el Had, half way between Azrou and Khenifra.

   

    Address of guest-house in Souk el Had (between Azrou and Mrirt) run by retired Frenchman.

Near Timhadit we met a couple of 4×4 heading north. Later, a handful of foreign bikers were spotted, half a dozen in all, though there were none at Auberge Ja’afar. According to proprietor, however, plenty of Americans and New-Zealanders around the previous night; he even claimed the inn was full. 

We passed through sun-baked Rich shortly before lunch-time as temperatures soared above 30°. Found the place undergoing full-scale transformation of its downtown; pushed on as rapidly as possible to reasonably shaded riverside picnic site near Ammouguer. Onward progress revealed frequent places where gravel and small rocks deposited on tarmac: conditions which are meat and drink to the trucks, mini-vans and 4×4 that habitually frequent this run. Come August, however, with the Imilchil Moussem in the offing, the local Travaux Publics will have to catch up on their road maintenance to facilitate access by  run-of-the-mill visitors in saloon cars.

 

  K. Mertz, with wife Dagmar, back on scene of long-past photographic exploits, Ayt ‘Ammer, May 14, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron) 

Accompanying us was veteran photographer Klaus Mertz indulging in a nostalgic return visit to Imilchil Moussem site at Ayt ‘Ammer for the first time in over 40 years! Back in 1967, his superb black and white studies of Ayt Hadiddou brides-to-be, shot with a Pentacon 6×6 camera, had adorned the Royal Air Maroc calendar. Today’s visit proved something of a come-down beneath lowering grey skies, barely lighting up the deserted spot, though enough to show that cupola and doors to shrine of Sidi Hmad Lmeghni had been re-painted blue-green (Could this be Darqawi influence?).

    

   Repainted shrine of Sidi Hmad Oulmeghni, Ayt Aâmar, May 14, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

A few more European-registered 4×4 vehicles (one French, two Brits, two Dutch) seen between Rich and Imilchil. Just beyond latter town a brace of camping-cars belonging to senior citizens had found a berth at Tizlit auberge. 

After a short walk around Imilchil, we spent the night at Bassou’s immaculate little inn.  Only one other guests were a French couple. No backpackers around. Room satisfactory with shower and comfy bed looking out onto fields back of hotel. However, wise to avoid room near front of building because of early morning shindig from cement-mixer and trucks. Dinner and breakfast up to par; all in all a bargain at DH 170,- per head for half-pension.

  

   Bassou’s lodge on the edge of Imilchil, May 15, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

Also checked out a likely-looking, budget-priced stopping-place just across the way: hotel de l’Avenir. On leaving Imilchil en route for lake Tizlit our attention was attracted by a panel advertising local tour leaders’ association (APAME), surprisingly adorned with now rarely seen GTAM mountain/palm-tree logo.

 

  Publicity for local tour leaders, Imilchil, May 15, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

 Got in a wee bit of walking around Tizlit. Perfect weather. The lake was a joy to see, water being at a much higher level than in recent years; cedar plantations doing surprisingly well along SW shore; coots, ducks and grebes out in force.

  

    Lake Tizlit showing high water-level and cedar saplings in foreground, May 15, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

 In this connection a nearby signpost proclaims existence of Eastern High Atlas national Park, southern limit of cedar forest, presence of fossils and likelihood of observing Barbary Sheep, though for that it’s best to work one’s way further east, towards Tirghist and/or Ou Terbat.

  

 

  Signpost advertising Eastern High Atlas National Park, Tizlit (photo: M. Peyron)

 Less than satisfactory, however, was the sight of a derelict lakeside building recently used by indelicate picnickers. If packaging anything to go by, culprits would again appear to belong to the Iberian fraternity. A timely reminder that local authorities would do well to remove eyesores such as these, and address problem of waste disposal, as previously recommended by one of our Moroccan colleagues.

 

   Spring in full bloom, roadside field between Naour and Larbaâ n-Ouqebli, May 15, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

 Moved on into a quiet Atlas backwater: the road from Naour to Taguelft (tigleft) past Larbaâ n-Ouqebli. Pleasant exchanges in Berber with locals. Roadside fields a riot of colour: thistles, poppies, green poplars, weeping willows. Tarmac put in only a few years back but due to defective maintenance is already heavily potholed; fortunately, however, traffic pretty light along here.  After crossing sparsely wooded plateau, came a succession of steep gradients and hairpin turns on descent to Oued Laabid affording distant views of Bilouidane lake and Central High Atlas summits. Sky turned overcast as on previous days, but no rain as such. 

Where to stay: Bilouidane 

If you happen to be rolling in lolly or have just won the jackpot, then the Widiane hotel is the place for you. Completed only last year (2010) on the strength of a possible economic upturn, this de luxe facility appears to be having a mild problem netting clients. No wonder. With accommodation at DH 2600,- a night, Thai massage at 400,- and  breakfast at 120,- it’s definitely not targeting the hoi polloi. Management are, however, thinking in terms of weekend promotional stays at 18% discount.

   

De luxe water-hole: Widiane hotel at Bilouidane, May 15, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

Contrariwise, the Little Morocco « Chez les Berbers » gîte d’étape, next-door to up-market Chems du Lac hotel, apparently operating in conjunction with a local Moroccan Berber family, appears to be successfully exploiting the budget-priced, low-impact camping niche.

   

  Put up at « Chez les Berbers » if you’re out-of-pocket, May 15, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

As luck would have it our party settled for medium-priced, refurbished hotel Bin El Ouidane, situated next to Cantarel’s marina housing estate. Set well back from the lake, boasting own swimming-pool, it does have outlet to aquatic sports, though activities,  including kayaking and quad biking, do extend to trekking.

 

 

  Quad bike line-up outisde  hotel Bin el Ouidane, May 15, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

A riad-style room (similar to that at Ouzoud) was available for DH 600,- including breakfast. AC available and recommended, with temperatures at around 30°. Though unsollicited, a young lady did attempt to access our room in the small hours! For dinner (including vino), served in well-appointed upstairs restaurant avec vue sur le lac, we had to pay extra, of course. Berber-speaking maître d’, however, is a credit to the establishment.   

 

 Breakfast-room at Bin el Ouidane hotel, May 16, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

Zat-Ourika region, Marrakesh High Atlas May 21-26 

Five days with two French companions (Michel Morgenthaler and Eric Hatt) on a classic leg of the GTAM through a relatively unspoiled High Atlas region, carrying 7-8kg packs and with a locally recruited unqualified guide. Almost like old times. Actually guide’s name was Aomar from Afrah village, son of old acquaintance Ahmed n-Ayt Boulman. Blue skies greeted us for a mid-morning, 2-hour ride in a Trans Almou coach from Bab Doukkala in Marrakesh to Taddert, which used to be this writer’s base camp during his early mountaineering days in the 1960-70s with Maurice Forseilles.

As it was just past noon, we treated ourselves to  Ahmed Bokar’s excellent tajines and kebab at Le Jardin, just across the street from the coach stop. Three or four European guests at other tables.  Lunch over, we made relatively short work of the gradients to Afrah village (1h30 out from Taddert), where we bumped into Ahmed n-Ayt Boulman in the middle of the path as he was trying to get a signal (rizzu) on his mobile. This worthy, quite a mountaineer in his day, had accompanied us up nearby peaks forty years before, when he had had us in fits because of his bare-footed antics on snowslopes! There ensued a cheerful reunion-cum-photo-occasion with Ahmed’s grand-daughters joining in for good measure. 

 

   Family shot with Ahmed n-Ayt Boulman, Afrah village, May 21, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

This follow-through of a portion of the GTAM showed, even more than on a previous visit in 1999, to what extent secondary paths, especially those serving side-valleys, have fallen into disuse, the emphasis now being on deep penetration pistes for 4×4 vehicles following main valley bottom wherever possible. As in Upper Zat as far as Imerguen. A development that  serves both market-bound hillmen and TOs, and will probably soon make the baggage-mule redundant, except with animals earmarked for use by commercial caravans on high-level routes. 

 

  « Short-cut » path (L) on approach to Imadsen, Zat valley, May 22, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

It was certainly the case regarding our hopefully time-saving “short-cut” from Asats to Imadsen via Asaka-Hangir and Tizi n-Wakal. Of reasonable viability between Asats and Tizi n-Wakal, beyond the col the eroded path became quite hairy in places. On the long drawn-out flanking descent to Imadsen at times it was quite easy to lose the trail, requiring skilled navigation and sturdy ankles. In the end, it proved an exhausting, totally pointless exercise. 

 

   E. Hatt & M. Morgenthaler after aborting attempt on Tizi n-Teinant, May 23, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

For similar reasons we were compelled to abort a bid on Tizi n-Teinant. After an energetic early morning footslog up path from Imerguen to Ansa, then completing lengthy detour along stream-beds and irrigation ditches, we reverted to main valley and tried to follow riverside path that skirted walnut trees up past some ‘azib-s. Everything looked hunky-dory. We seemed all set for Tizi n-Teinant. 

 

It was not to be. A few hundred yards up-valley the trail simply petered out half-way over a boulder slope scoured by erosion runnels. Proving that what a Berber woman had told me minutes earlier was only too true: “išqa fell-ak. ibbey uġarass s-unzar d-iselliwn!” (“It’s too difficult for you. The path has been destroyed by rain- and stone-fall!”). 

  

   Ansa village, upper Zat valley; note satellite dishes, May 23, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

 Barely recovered from boulder indigestion, we ambled back  and were surprised to see a few iris (susban), coloured a bold blue, edging some vegetable patches near Ansa, contrary to previous recollections of a flower usually at its best around end-March. Later, entire fields dedicated to this plant (sometimes sharing space with cherry trees) were seen at Ouarzazt up on Yagour plateau. Local Berbers have taken to cultivating this plant because of demand from Moroccan pharmaceutical trade. 

  

    Beyond the yellow flowers a field of iris, Yagour, May 24, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

   

     Ouarzazt village, 3/4 empty before summer arrival of massed herds, May 24, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

The Ouarzazt hamlet, which this writer put on the trekking map back in 1976 while reconnoitring the Bougemmaz-Oukaimedden leg of the GTAM, has since developed out of all proportions. From unprepossessing, temporary ‘azib-s the locals have graduated to handsome and comfortable symmetrical houses of dry stone, with roofs a medley of poplar cross-beams and sandstone slabs. The village is actually only fully lived in from late-June to end-September when flocks arrive en masse.

 

   Typical dry-stone house on Yagour plateau, May 25, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

Fields of wheat, ripening and undulating in the breeze, monopolize most of the flat ground over scores of acres across the neighbouring plateau.  During the last two days of our little traverse, the weather took a decided turn for the worse. In fact, it rained practically all night (May 24-25).

Next morning we were off by 9am after donning foul weather gear. In the intermittent rain the vast green expanses of the Yagour appeared at their best. In places grass and other vegetation were two feet high. At least seven varieties of flower observed, while three species of mushroom grew in profusion. A lone toad, some 6” long, and several tree frogs were seen lurking by small tarn known as Dayet n-Ifferd – a particularly fine spot, with the snow-streaked peak of Meldsen mirrored in its waters. 

    

      No Mrs Tittlemouse around! Jackson the toad skulking in pond-side vegetation, Dayet n-Ifferd, May 25, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

Two commercial caravans were met on Yagour plateau: the first near Dayet n-Ifferd and its famous site of prehistoric rock carvings. This party was led by two apparently competent, serious-looking Moroccan guides with seven-eight tourists (mostly French), all humping light day packs. 

 

  TO group at Dayet n-Ifferd, Yagour plateau, May 25, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

An hour down the trail we met another very laid-back  group headed by leader Brahim from Ayt Bougemmaz, in company with another Moroccan and six French tourists gallivanting along the path: four boys, hands in pockets; two girls with couple of day packs. In each case standard arrangement of unimpeded trekkers with luggage  and camping equipment following on back-up mules.

   

    Leisurely backpacking on Yagour plateau, our laidback « guide » in foreground, 2nd TO group, May 25, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

Serious backpacking, however, as still practiced by yours faithfully on this particular trip, appears to be on the way out! Just to set the record straight, however, the next day, while descending from Wigrane village to Sti Fatma, we were passed by a private party of three youthful Frenchmen with backpacks; former Marrakshi residents revisiting old haunts. Welcome news since it showed that mountain-walkers were not allowing the post Marrakesh bombing atmosphere to interfere overmuch with their travel plans. 

  

   Serious backpacking: M. Morgenthaler & E. Hatt at Tizi n-Ghellis with footsore « guide », Meltsen in background, May 25, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

Forsaking the standard descent down past awesome waterfalls and Annamer’s irrigated terraces, our guide led us left at the trail-fork along another extended flanking traverse through clumps of asphodel. There were impressive views down over terraced Ayt Oucheg villages, and beyond the Ourika valley to where snow-capped Tougroudaden and Anghomar loomed out of the thunderclouds. 

 

   Tougroudaden (L) and Anghomar in middle distance from above Wigran village, May 25, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

 Penultimate section of our 5-day traverse entailed negotiating a twisting, stony path down to Wigran village after a pretty good day (8 hours on trail). Aomar managed to find first-class accommodation in house where middle-aged couple were living with married son and his cheerful young wife. Peaceful night.

Following morning after breakfast the final stretch into the Ourika valley took us less than two hours and, after crossing the hanging bridge over the raging torrent, we paid off our « guide ». All in all  a friendly, good-natured chappie, but next time he might choose suitable footwear to guarantee a smoother walk!

As light drizzle was developing into a full-sized downpour we put our best foot forward in the direction of Sti Fatma to find a taxi. There was hardly a soul in sight, except for a couple of French backpackers kitted out in water-proofs and, not to be outdone by the rain, sturdily striding along the tarmac. Just then a taxi hove into sight, we clinched an almost instant deal in Berber, and minutes later were speeding towards Marrakesh. Several minibuses and a 50-seater coach or two seen en route proved yet again that tourist-wise the Arghana café bombing had not yet brought things to a standstill. Lunch at hotel Ali rounded off a far from unsatisfactory trip.

Touch of nostalgia tinged with regret, however, for this little stint along the old GTAM underscored the fact that, given the pace of change in the backpacking world, the number of individual footsloggers was declining in the face of unfair competition from commercial caravans.

Grenoble, July 18, 2011 

The Lone Backpacker 

michael.peyron@voila.fr 

Tour Operator Watch n° 13 

End-April 2011 

Introduction 

It was bound to happen sooner or later. The boom recently enjoyed by Morocco’s thriving tourism industry, the envy of less fortunate lands, was perhaps too good to last. For some months, even years, ever since the 2003 Casablanca bombings, radio-trottoir (as the local rumour-mill is sometimes called) had entertained fears of similar, Al-Qaeda-inspired outrages on tourist “soft” targets in Morocco. 

Now, true to form, despicable terrorists have left their mark. The Café Argana, a popular favourite with visitors to Jemaa el Fna square, Marrakesh, was hit on Thursday, April 28 with fatal results. The death toll stands at 17, with a score or more wounded. Universal indignation and condemnation was clearly and justifiably voiced almost immediately afterwards when hundreds of Marrakshis took to the streets. King Mohammed VI (agellid-nneġ) was also quick to visit the blighted spot to express concern and sympathy. 

To a long-term European resident in Morocco, who feels more than a little affection for the country and its people, such an event is particularly sad, even tragic, striking as it does a grievous blow at the heart of its ancient, iconic capital city. The very target-name is significant. Argana, a large village at the end of the Western High Atlas, stands for the hard-working ašelḥiy community, many of whom depend on tourism for their livelihood. Argana is also traditionally famous for its large collective bee-hive, evocative of the sweetness associated with true tament (‘honey’) – not the industrial, sugar-added variety, but the authentic tabeldiyt  product. 

Such a dire event will lead more than one to eat humble pie. Even the present writer who, holding out for small private parties visiting either on their own or through Morocco-based agencies, guides and lodges, is well-known for his critical views on foreign, TO-supported saturation tourism. In the present circumstances, while sharing the grief of those who lost loved ones, and regretting that some visitors may shelve their travel plans in the immediate future, we can but hope that there will be a speedy return to normal. With – no doubt a pipe dream – small groups of well-informed, environmentally-motivated visitors continuing without any let-up to tramp Morocco’s hills. Bear in mind that “small is beautiful” and environment-friendly.   

What became of those Iberian cohorts? 

While early-April usually witnesses the arrival en masse of Iberian off-road vehicles and assorted trail-bikes, they have been conspicuously absent this spring. With the shining exception of a convoy of a dozen Portuguese 4 x 4 enthusiasts on the motorway near Oued Beht on April 15, their national flag proudly fluttering in the breeze, as if in defiance of proposed EU economic bail-out! Not to mention several vehicles with French number plates seen near Marrakech over the April 23-24 (Easter) weekend.

But that still didn’t explain where the Spanish contingent had gone to.  Two weeks earlier there had indeed been long faces in Midelt. “The Spaniards are broke. They just can’t afford Morocco this year!” we were told at the half-deserted parking lot outside the Auberge Itto Ja’afar. 

However, if the Spanish off-roaders are apparently taking time out in the pollution game, they are being replaced by others. On April 12, when we returned to a certain neck of the woods in the ‘Ayyachi foothills (desecrated by Malaga mountain-bikers in late-March of 2010; cf. Tour Operator Watch n° 10) it was interesting to compare this year’s pollution samples with those of 2010. As visible evidence of Spanish absenteeism, sardine-can wrappers and other junk were mostly in French, some in Arabic, suggesting locally purchased items.      

                 

      Pollution samples, Mitkane crossroads, Apr 12, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)   

Who then, were the culprits this time around? Our hunch: either French 4-WD exponents, or Moroccan workmen employed on the local forestry development project who didn’t bother to clean up after their picnic lunch. Significantly, however, use of Mitkane crossroads (Bou Ouddi) as a rubbish tip, continues unabated a year later. Such blatant disrespect for a choice woodland site is somehow at variance with the much-publicised Tounfit area development project!    The present writer may be guilty of over-reacting, but he and the now threatened cedars of the Mitkane crossroads go back a long way. That’s where he came through in July 1967 on an early visit to the area, while in April 1974 he reached it on ski from the Mitkane Forestry Hut and, as he waited for his companions, even had time to shave with a blunt razor, some toilet soap and melt-water from a snowball. It was also the spot chosen by our vehicle back-up team to collect us after a first Ayyachi circuit (“le Tour de l’Ayyachi”) in August 1976. The place was rubbish-free at the time – probably because to get there you had to brave a bumpy rutted track. Since 2009, tarmac (gudrun as the Berbers call it), in connection with the Tamalout dam project, has become the thin end of the wedge. The results are all too plain to see.   

 Snowcover on ‘Ayyachi 

    

    Snowclad N slopes of  ’Ayyachi, May 28 1972 (photo: M. Peyron)  

Snowcover on ‘Ayyachi continues to recede year after year, no doubt due to climate change. By all accounts the winter of 2010-2011 was a pretty dry one. The accompanying photos of ‘Ayyachi would certainly appear to argue in favour of a marked shortfall in snowcover, especially compared to conditions in the early 1970s, memories of which are recalled as if belonging to a Golden Age!  

      

  ‘Ayyachi N slopes from Imtchimen, March 28, 2010 (photo: M. Peyron)

       Largely snowfree N slopes of ‘Ayyachi from Imtchimen, Apr 12, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

Hotels, gîtes, etc.

1) Ouzoud waterfalls 

  

Largely spoiled by excessive development this once attractive site boasts several places to spend the night at varying prices. Comfortable, twin-bed accommodation provided at Riad Cascades d’Ouzoud will put you back some DH 700,- Breakfast, however not quite up to high standard of room; could definitely have been better (sampled on morning of March 30, 2010). Probably something to do with fact that the patron was absent. When the cat is away…

2) More on the Ourthane eco-lodge at Zaouit ech-Cheikh.  

 

    

  

 Situated a few miles SW of Zaouit ech-Cheikh and just off the main Marrakech-Fez road, the Ourthane lodge is something of a pioneer in terms of a user- and environment-friendly lodge geared to the requirements of small groups. Especially those with specialist interest (environment, ornithology, history, ethnology, Amazigh lore, etc.)

 3)    Update on Midelt hotels: In a previous article we came to the rescue of Midelt’s hotels which had been taking something of a bashing, mostly on trip.advisor.com. Herewith miscellaneous details and pictures on the topic.    

  

      Auberge Itto Ja’afar, sporting a new SE wing, April 11, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron) 

 The Auberge Itto Ja’afar continues to provide comfortable beds and good food, and Saïd the owner is as friendly and hospitable as ever. However, do check your restaurant bill carefully; the Maître d’ has been known to overcharge. If you want to have a hot shower, allow the water to run for 3-4 minutes. 

 

     

   Keeping the competition on its toes, Midelt, Apr 13, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)  

Some friendly street-corner competition appears to be raging between the classic Hotel El Ayachi and the new Riad Villa Midelt guest house, if these signposts are anything to go by (compare with « Hotel Wars, 2001″, pictured elsewhere on this website).                                

             Hotel Taddart, Midelt, Apr 13, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)    

The new de luxe Hotel Taddart is a rambling, imitation Kasbah, but a fine looking building for all that. It is situated outside of town, on the left as you arrive from Meknes. Appeared to all intents and purposes empty on the morning of April 14. In fact they’ll probably have a job filling it up, unless they can book mammoth groups.  But they’ll have to encourage parties to use it as an excursion-base, and that’ll entail developing local expertise in guide-training, then reconnoitring worthwhile nearby sites for visitors.

4)    Azrou: the Hotel Restaurant des Cèdres, with its period furniture and reasonably clean rooms, one of which actually boasts a shower (complete with hot-water), remains excellent value for money. The restaurant serves palatable food.  We warmly recommend this facility, either as a staging-point on a long trip, or as a local excursion-base.           

   Hotel-restaurant des Cèdres, Azrou, Apr 15, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

5)    Where to stay in Marrakesh    

             

   Hotel El Andalous, Marrakesh, Apr 22, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron) 

A posh, up-market sort of place, the Hotel El Andalous, boasts an attractive, tree-lined swimming-pool with constant over-flight by bulbuls, pigeons, sparrows and house buntings. Beds are comfortable, nocturnal rowdiness almost non-existent, especially in rooms on the higher floors. The now classic buffet breakfast is user-friendly, and ranges from standard Continental fare with French rolls and coffee, to full slap-up grub including eggs, cereals and what-have-you. A basement restaurant that also serves as a sort of night-club, with dimmed lights (don’t forget your specs if you want to study the menu!), will put you out of pocket to the tune of DH 180,- for a 37-cl bottle of local Sahari wine, bread and olives for starters, and a plate of cheese-flavoured pasta as main course.  However, it’s well worth it and the staff are polite and attentive.

        

      Easter weekend tourists outside Hotel Ali, Apr 24, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)   

Far more basic, the good old Hotel Ali, just 50 yards from Jamaa el Fnaa, provides accommodation in the DH 200-320 price bracket (see full report on this establishment elsewhere on this website). 

Marrakesh: the bubble has burst 

Predictably, in the wake of serious trouble across the MENA area in February of this year, and even before the  cowardly April 28th bombing of the Argana Café, on Jemaa el Fna square, real estate prices in and around Marrakesh had come tumbling down. It was bound to happen sooner or later; the riad craze couldn’t last indefinitely. In early April 2011 the going price for riads, in particular, had significantly declined – in some instances by as much as 30 %! 

As he leaves the ramparts of the Red City and heads towards the Ourika valley the traveller cannot fail to notice the cranes standing idle at umpteen empty building sites. Supply had arguably been outpacing demand, anyway, with potentially negative repercussions on the local aquifer. The only positive angle to the present slow-down that one can possibly find is that it will bring some measure of relief to common-or-garden drinking-water – a much-abused resource; a fact of life to which silent sprinklers, jaded jacuzis and half-finished swimming-pools of de luxe housing estates bear mute testimony. What with drought in Morocco just round the corner, at least it will give the water-table a rest. 

However, as we shall see in the subsequent paragraph, before the April 28th explosion, Marrakesh had been weathering the on-going politico-economic storm reasonably well. It is only to be hoped that there will be no further terrorist outrages so that the return to normality may occur as soon as possible.

Short-lived Easter weekend bonanza  While the ranks of tourists had been thinning somewhat around the country in general, it was clear that Marrakech was acting as a heaven-sent alternative destination to all those potential visitors to Tunisian beaches and Egypt’s pyramids. In March and early-April of 2011 reports from the Red City spoke of scarce hotel vacancies. When we visited over the Easter weekend there certainly seemed to be no dearth of tour buses; Jemaa el Fna, that famous square, was literally crawling with foreign visitors. Horse-drawn carriages did appear to be awaiting customers; otherwise story-tellers, dancers, and snake-charmers were doing a roaring trade; nearby restaurants were packed. Numerous Easter holiday vacationers from Europe had obviously been taking advantage of cheap package tickets, and were much in evidence en famille. A kind of mini-boom was under way.

         

       Bikers cruising pas Agelmam n-Tghalouine, Middle Atlas, Apr 18, 2011 (photo: M. Peyron)

But it was the bikers, mostly from Britain, France and Germany, that seemed to be spear-heading this mini-invasion. Along roads leading to and from Marrakech they were surging along, their headlamps on; often as many as 15 bikes together. Nor were they absent from the Rabat-Meknes motorway and Ifrane/Azrou area. Some even roared past in a cloud of dust along a forest track as we were backpacking on April 18 south of the Michliffen resort (Middle Atlas).

This dynamic presence raises hopes for the coming months. We somehow feel that the bikers, as personifications of mobility and liberty, will find it hard to neglect Morocco’s wide open reaches. Wishful thinking? Perhaps not. Anyway, only time can tell.

Conclusion

And now, in the aftermath of the Marrakesh bombing, hopes may have been temporarily dashed. Yet is this not the time to come out of one’s corner fighting? Though it is still too early to evaluate fall-out from the Café Argana outrage, it is hard to believe that the flow of Morocco-bound visitors is going to dry up overnight simply because of that one event. That tourist intake will be curtailed there is little doubt. As a knock-on effect, hotel, lodge and guest-house bookings may not pick up before autumn of 2011. This writer, however, while monitoring the situation closely, and displaying some caution, will definitely not stay away from the Atlas Mountains. Even better, he will encourage his backpacking friends and acquaintances to do likewise. Don’t let a splinter-group of misguided killjoys govern your lives! 

michael.peyron@voila

A la recherche d’un imaginaire : cas du Maroc touristique

Il est avéré que les touristes européens et/ou américains, avertis ou non, qui visitent le Maroc depuis une dizaine d’années, sont en quête d’un imaginaire façonné par leur propre esprit, et en fonction des représentations souvent factices dont ils se gargarisent à l’égard du pays. Aidé en cela par une certaine lecture de l’histoire, influencée depuis des lustres par un Orientalisme facile et tenace, sans parler des sites web, des médias prompts à la surenchère, de certains auteurs à la mode traitant du monde maghrébin. En fait, les gens – autant d’egos qui se trimbalent et qui veulent satisfaire leurs petites envies – se contrebalancent de la vérité, de la réalité des choses. Actuellement, on est de plus en plus en empathie envers son environnement social, voire naturel, ce qui génère un égo-centrisme forcené que l’on veut satisfaire à tout prix. Peu importe la non-vérité qui voit alors le jour, pourvu qu’il y ait ivresse des sens et de l’esprit ! 

Que représente la destination Maroc pour le visiteur étranger ?

L’idée qu’il se fait du pays, et en partie des monts de l’Atlas et du Grand Sud, est basée sur une mythologie (voire d’une vulgate), toute en trompe l’œil, soigneusement entretenue par les voyagistes. Imaginaire peuplé d’êtres aux contours parfois flous : le cavalier de fantasia, le nomade chamelier, l’Homme bleu, le Touarègue, le Berbère, ou Amazigh (‘homme libre’) que l’on assaisonne à toutes les sauces. Sans parler d’un petit brin de Saint-Exupéry qui flotte dans l’air, mythe de l’Aéro-Postale oblige. Curieusement, aussi, Laurence d’Arabie figure au sein de cet improbable Panthéon en tant qu’invité surprise ! Jusqu’à un hôtel marrakchi qui portera son nom.  Lui qui n’a jamais mis les pieds au Maroc, si ce n’est que par Peter O’Toole interposé… 

À cette overdose d’esbroufe, à ces personnages de légende s’ajoutent des espaces privilégiés : les cascades d’Ouzoud transformées en parc d’attraction ; le Toubkal (4167m) culminant et ses satellites d’un accès facile ; le puissant Mgoun aux rédibitoires pierriers qu’arpentent des norias de trekkeurs en juillet-août; le pays Ayt Bouguemmez devenu « Vallée Heureuse » avec ses gîtes dits « de charme »; les roches peintes de l’Anti-Atlas ; les somptueux paysages d’Ouarzazat, dignes d’un film à la James Bond ; les dunes de Merzouga sur lesquelles planent l’ombre de Paul Bowles, grâce au film Un thé au Sahara (alias The Sheltering Sky – in Anglish in ze texte), et où évoluent des colporteurs travestis en Sahariens soucieux de proposer bijoux touarègues et kilims berbères garantis d’origine ! Ce qui se pratique depuis belle lurette au Moussem d’Imilchil, autre évènement phare de l’année touristique. Interrogé in situ en Tamazight par nos soins, l’un de ces fameux « Touarègues » au chèche bleu a avoué venir tout simplement de Tamtettoucht sur le versant sud du Haut Atlas ! Ben voyons… Car les locaux ont vite compris que les vacanciers venaient chez eux appréhender non pas la stricte réalité, mais (histoire de nourrir leurs phantasmes) une certaine dimension légendaire du pays… Pourquoi alors ne pas en rajouter au besoin ? 

C’est de bonne guerre.

Aussi, afin de mieux vivre son trip aux ambitions sahariennes, afin de se fondre dans la masse en goguette, convient-il au « Package tourist » de se déguiser en Homme bleu. Cela devient quasi-obsessionnel. Mieux, le visiteur est ouvertement encouragé à s’accoutrer ainsi. « Pour   faire authentique », lui dira-t-on.  Alors que cela relève du plus pur « bidon » !

Seulement voilà. Petit problème. Les dunes de Merzouga ou les replats de M’hamid, perçus comme espace saharien par excellence, sont au Diable Vauvert par rapport à la Ville Rouge. Alors, aux portes mêmes de la capitale du sud, du côté de Lalla Takerkoust, il a fallu a créer de toutes pièces un ersatz, un succédané : le désert marrakshi (ou d’Agafay).

  

Là, en pleine cambrousse aride, à quelques minutes d’hélico du centre ville, on propose pour environ € 3650 par personne un weekend « en plein désert », en logeant sous la toujours très « authentique » kheima berbère (avec tente lounge attenante et vins fins à discrétion), animée par des soirées avec danses, non moins « berbères » elles aussi ; le tout agrémenté de journées en quad, à cheval, à dromadaire, ou en 4 x 4. Histoire de se la jouer en s’offrant un petit « Dakar » sur mesure ! Ou bien, satisfaire une certaine soif d’idéalisme romantique nomade censée sommeiller chez tout cadre supérieur stressé. 

Normal, non ? Il l’aura lu dans des bouquins ou les journaux ; vu à la télé, surtout. A présent, son trip, il va le réaliser !

On l’aura compris, envisagé sous cet angle, le droit de s’éclater, de se mettre dans la peau d’un baroudeur du désert, ne serait-ce que 48 heures, demeure pour les TO une ressource quasiment inépuisable, éminemment monnayable. D’autant plus que le consommateur de ce genre de prestation peut se rassurer à l’idée qu’il contribue à l’éco-tourisme, notion à la mode, tant il est facile de s’auto-convaincre que l’on fait ainsi œuvre utile. Guère besoin, d’ailleurs, de forcer la main à notre candidat à l’évasion. Les publicistes des TO jouent sur du velours. Grâce à quoi, rassurons-nous, nos chers voyagistes ont encore devant eux de beaux jours à fignoler des produits toujours plus alléchants.

Rabat, le 25/04/2011

michael.peyron@voila.fr

PS – Note « pondue » suite à une conversation à Midelt avec Carolina Mackenzie. Pour en savoir plus sur ce sujet passionnant, nous renvoyons le lecteur à l’analyse très fine de Jean-Didier Urbain, L’idiot du voyage, Histoire de touristes, Payot, 1993.

Tour Operator Watch n° 12: Midelt hotels and commercial caravans in Morocco’s Eastern High Atlas  (+ miscellaneous items)   

Introduction   

As readers may well recall, three or so years back our “Tour Operator watch” series carried a feature on out-of-the-way reaches of the Atlas, such as Bou Iblan and ‘Ayyachi, in which we highlighted the small number of TOs that programmed these destinations. In the interval the message appears to have been received loud and clear, as a brace of big-name overseas TOs eager to make a killing, together with several local agencies and guides, now target these areas. Also, in n° 6 of the same series we published a short, critical piece on hotels in Midelt, an ideal  base camp for forays into these massifs and the major jumping-off  point for parties tackling the GTAM. 

Our purpose in this article is, first, to take up the cudgels on behalf of Midelt hotels, which have recently been coming in for more than their fair share of flak; second, to focuss on TO websites with a view to exposing and correcting some of the inevitable inaccuracies that creep into their on-line discourse.  TOs should not take this amiss as they definitely stand to gain by projecting an image of efficiency and accuracy, rather than the sloppy, “anything goes” impression their brochure talk may at times convey. In fact, one wonders how certain agents can keep a straight face the way they continue publishing the same titbits of pure twaddle, year in, year out!  As usual, of course,we also hope to convince individual backpackers to dispense with the service of TOs, glean as much information as possible from books and web, and ultimately do their own thing, possibly recruiting their own guides and/or porters on the spot. 

Are Midelt hotels really that bad? 

If anything, reports on Midelt hotels have worsened over the past three years. Of the three best-known contenders, Kasbah Asmaa, Auberge Itto Ja’afar and Hôtel El Ayachi are classified in that order, from least bad downwards, according to traveller review ratings published by www.tripadvisor.com. Even the brand-new (fall 2010) Hôtel Taddart, just outside town on the west side, registered one shockingly poor report; three, however, were more positive. Meanwhile, a less well-known facility, Villa Riad, had quietly netted only one review, yet a positive one at that.

Although not actually sited near Midelt, but right out in the countryside closer to Zeida, some 20 km up the road towards Azrou, is the road-side Auberge Timnay. This well-appointed establishment goes in for the full range of travellers, whether down- or up-market and is a very pleasant place to stay at. Run by Youssef Ait Lemkadem, it organizes hybrid tours (4×4 + walks) in the Eastern High Atlas region, prioritizing an environment-friendly approach to Berber  culture.

 

But it’s among the above-listed “big three” that ratings have been consistently bad to average. El Ayachi, which comes across as Heath-Robinson, old-fashioned and dirty, is placed firmly at the bottom of the list; not one reviewer would recommend the place to a friend! And yet travelwizard.com, a California-based consultant who goes in for Luxury Travel Packages, would appear to differ. In its “Jaffar-Ayachi vacation” description this firm publishes a statement that is less than accurate: “The efficiently run Hôtel Ayachi is an ideal base for excursions to the Cirque of Jaffar and Jebel Ayachi”.

     

       How to hoodwink customers; picture of some other hotel purporting to illustrate Hôtel El Ayachi (photo: info@belgavoyages.be)    

As for Belga Voyages (from Belgium) they not only publish a totally false picture of the El Ayachi hôtel (the one depicted above is of another establishment), but wax unnecessarily eloquent: “Une adresse de référence… Souci du détail jusqu’aux poignées de portes (…) ambiance cosy (…) une halte poétique pour nomade de luxe ” !! Another consultant (annuaires.phpbb-seo.com) publishes an equally favourable report. Surely, the truth must lie somewhere between these misleading items of info and the findings of www.tripadvisor.com? 

  

   What Hôtel El Ayachi actually looks like (from the hôtel brochure, circa 2004)

In actual fact it does and this writer, who has known the place for upwards of forty years, will now go out and bat for the El Ayachi side. Admittedly, the hotel is antiquated, slightly run-down and guilty at times of slipshod management. Yet, the bed-rooms are comfortable. There may not always be hot water, but put in an inquiry at the desk and you’ll probably get results. The last time we were there (night of Jan 21-22, 2011) there was scalding water on tap! If the room’s freezing, get the staff to set up an electric heater. Indeed, the people at the hotel (especially Ali, the manager) are generally friendly, hospitable, and anxious to please, while the quality of the food is above-average by local standards. It probably has something to do with the fact that the place has specialized for the last twenty years in luncheons for tourist coaches on the Fez-Erfoud run, now served in a comfortable, refurbished veranda restaurant. Furthermore, the surrounding gardens are as likely a spot to enjoy a sun-downer as you could wish for; the breakfasts, which may be served on the terrace depending on season, are generally wholesome and adequate – you can get a fry-up if you ask for one.

The other two of the better-known establishments, the Kasba Asmaa and Auberge Itto Ja’afar, share almost equal ratings. The former, sited outside town on the road to Rich, is readily accessible, hospitable and generally adequate for overnighters. Lots of groups stop there. Our own experience is that the beds are comfortable, the food palatable; as for the urinals in the ground-floor toilets, complete with a Madame Pipi, they are kept spotlessly clean. However, the place tends to be criticized for its tired-looking appearance, dusty carpets, poor plumbing and dubious-looking swimming-pool. As one French reviewer wisecracks, referring to Kasbah Asmaa: “Moyen… comme l’Atlas”! 

  The Auberge Itto Ja’afar, outside Midelt, May 2008 (photo: M. Peyron)

The Auberge Itto Ja’afar, way out of town at the foot of Jbel ‘Ayyachi, has been taken to task as a “random fake castle experience”, a definition that actually comes dangerously close to describing other establishments in town. Some travellers have also criticicized its poor cuisine.  They have a point, mind you, as meals can be iffy. For example: one evening in March 2010 we sampled an absolutely scrumptious cous-cous; the next we attempted to dine off leathery brochettes and half cooked vegetables. Which is perhaps why one report says: “Luckily we stayed just one night only”.  By and large, however, our experience at this inn over the past 10 years (practically since it was founded) is that board and lodging are reasonably good. In fact, a more sensible reviewer proved quite ecstatic: “I loved the place for its ramshackle authenticness. (…) Now you’re in Africa!”

Which perhaps sums up the way one should approach these Midelt hotels.  It’s all about being a nomade, but not necessarily a  de luxe one! “You’re in Africa!” means that certain uptight tourists should let themselves go; give up their spoiled-brat, consumer-inspired expectations of spit-and-polish-cum-air-conditioning, and face up with humour, tempered by fortitude, to novel situations. Then, when confronted with the miscellaneous yet on the whole adequate accommodation that Midelt can provide, they’ll come to see that they’re not so badly done by, after all. 

 Commercial caravans in the Eastern High Atlas   

 Evening view of Jbel Ma’asker from 3 km SW of Tounfit, as the cows come home, Oct. 1973 (photo: M. Peyron)

While tourists coming in through Fez  have a distinct advantage as regards the drive to base camp (only 4 hours by road), the length of the Saïs airport runway has so far precluded landings by wide-bodied jets, thus limiting passenger intake. And keeping activity definitely small-time. Conversely, the one snag that has badgered TOs attempting to set up Eastern High Atlas tours from Marrakech has for long been the sheer distance involved in getting there (7-8 hours by road). Not to mention the long haul back on the last day from somewhere high up in the Ta’ara’art valley. Especially when most prospective trekkers are investing in a one-week package. As a result, air traffic through Fez remains minimal, with only one locally operating Moroccan guide, the lion’s share of the market going to Marrakech-based agencies. 

What destinations are on offer? The favourite, and by far, is Jbel ‘Ayyachi (also Djebel Ayachi, à la française),  an iconic summit programmed in various combinations from all points of the compass, with the basic Tounfit-Imilchil trek (or vice-versa) coming a close second. 

 

    H. Daoudi & C. Mackenzie near top of Tizi n-Ayt Brahim, Tounfit-Imilchil traverse, May 1998 (photo: M. Peyron)

Of the local agencies, Périple au Sud, run by an obviously knowledgable, unnamed Frenchwoman, has programmed a kind of hybrid tour. Instead of a straight, 8-hour road-bash Marrakech to Imilchil, the party sensibly makes a southern detour, camping en route, via the Dades and Todgha gorges to reach lake Tislit. From there begins a 5-day trek to Ja’afar, visiting Tirghist and Agoudim on the way, ‘Ayyachi being scaled by its southern flank from the Ta’ara’art valley. In all, a potentially attractive tour that takes up some 11 days. 

Other local agencies will take you up ‘Ayyachi from Tounfit via Ta’ara’art, such as Trekking Holidays in Morocco, within an 8-day tour (choice of airports between Fez and Marrakech); some programme themselves out of Marrakech (Nature Trekking Morocco, Toubkal Rando, etc.), and another outfit from Agadir (Maroc Horizon d’Aventure), though the last-named actually offer trips through Marrakech.  From Fez, Marrakech or Casablanca, Moulay ‘Abdellah Lharizi of Moyen Atlas Trekking offers ‘Ayyachi summit on a 5-day trek taking in Tounfit, the Ta’ara’art valley and Ja’afar.  Abdeltizi, a Fez-based operator, organises a 10-day Imlilchil-Ja’afar trek culminating with an ascent of ‘Ayyachi from Ayt Ouchen. Azul Travel prove highly innovative, offering a 15-day tour out of Casblanca taking in Ja’afar-Ayt Ouchen-Ta’ara’art-Tizi n-Mawtfoud-Zaoui Sidi Hamza. They do a postscriptum including the much-frequented Merzouga sand-dunes.  The most comprehensive coverage of ‘Ayyachi, however, including a Midelt-Zaouiat Sidi Hamza traverse, is provided by a Marrakech-based operation calling itself Marocco Tours and Excursion, on www.wanderingadventurestrip.moonfruit.com. If their English is somewhat slapdash their approach is commendably sensitive and insightful.

 View from E end of Ma’asker: Amkaidou (L) & ‘Ayyachi main ridge in distance (centre R), Tagount (R) , separating Asif Toura n-Ayt Moussa from Toura n-Ayt Bou ‘Arbi, Nov. 1967 (photo: M. Peyron)

Variations on the Tounfit-Imilchil route are popular. Aziz Rando and Abdeltizi offer the basic 8-day tour. Local guide Mohammed Daghoghi, now based in southern Spain and whom we strongly recommend, will accompany you on a 7-day trek from Imilchil to Midelt via Tounfit between January and June. As for Caravane du Sud, Zagora, they plan a 29-day traverse from Jbel Ma’asker to Tizi n-Tichka which follows the Tounfit-Imilchil route for 3 days.   

 

   Highland Berber fortress near Imlilchil, March 2002 (photo: M. Peyron)

International TOs in the area are far from numerous. In fact, there are just four of them: Celtic Trekking Ltd, a French, Nepal-based trekking agency that has recently branched out to Morocco, with a certain Aziz, apparently operating out of Marrakech, as their representative; also Allibert from Savoy, and their twin, Azur Ever. These two are pioneering a 20-day Ja’afar-Megdaz traverse, claiming that “le Haut Atlas oriental (a été) absent jusqu’ici des brochures d’agence” (at best a half-truth), and highlighting “Ayachi, mythique point culminant du Haut Atlas oriental, sommet peu gravi…”. Atlas Sahara Tours are a Spanish outfit operating in Morocco who do an 8-day trek taking in Ayachi.

Celtic Trekking, one of the many agencies who need to do some work on their website, have programmed a choice between an 8-day and a 15-day tour from Imilchil, exploring what they strangely define as “le Moyen-Atlas méconnu… le massif Maaskar où s’élève le sommet Ayachi à 3747m”.  Toguna voyages, for their part, contradict this by claiming that ‘Ayyachi is a well-known summit. This kind of haziness is typical anyway of Marrakech-based operators for whom any mountain east of Bougemmaz belongs to the Middle Atlas! 

Jbel Ma’asker: a much abused summit

 

   Jbel Ma’asker seen from due N, Anfif gully on R, March 1986 (photo:M. Peyron)

In fact, while trawling the net it came home strongly to this writer that some peoples’ ignorance of Atlas Mountain terminology is abysmal. Examples abound, too numerous to be itemized, where visitors confuse the High and Middle Atlas. But dwelling on these  would border on the absurd as we tend to favour a positive approach. Some errors, however, deserve to be highlighted, such as the puzzling confusion between ‘Ayyachi and Ma’asker. This emerges from the following description: “Around the Maaskar culminating at 3747m in a splendid world of virgin and undisclosed country, you discover scenic lakes, cedars and oak forests…” (cf. Moroccan Skies, another Marrakech-based TO). Actually, Ma’asker (and we won’t quarrel over the spelling!) is only 3257m high. This sort of mix-up is unfortunate as it will end up confusing not only readers but backpackers who actually visit the area.    

        

          

 Pics of Ma’asker purporting to illustrate ‘Ayyachi (photos: F. Boulbès, top,  &  Trekking Atlas Berber Morocco, bottom).  

 Even stranger,  French travel consultant François Boulbès and local guide Zaïd Oukda (cf. above) both publish photos, purportedly of ‘Ayyachi, but actually showing Ma’asker! Wow! Somebody at the office must have messed things up. They ought to get their act together, though, as no fewer than 16 outfits actually offer the summit and we believe that their customers are entitled to a genuine view of this prestigious mountain (cf. full article on ‘Ayyachi elsewhere on this website).  

 

Another offender : our friend www.its4youtours  who use the above perfectly good picture of Ma’asker to illustrate the description of a tour to the Rif mountains, of all places! Well, it’s over 300 kilometres from Ma’asker to the Rif as the crow flies, and anyway the two have precious little in commmon. By looking carefully you can even make out the town of Tounfit at the bottom left-hand corner of the photograph. (Rather like using a shot of Lochnagar to illustrate Snowdon.) If they get the captions to their website pics wrong, how are these people going to perform on the actual trip? Come on, gentlemen, try and get your act together!

Cleaning up brochure talk 

It is obvious from the above that many of the local agencies have work to do on their websites. Those that take the trouble to word their descriptions in English should avoid dropping too many bricks regarding idiom and lexicon, and this applies especially to our previously mentioned friends on www.wanderingadventurestrip.moonfruit.com. There are also too many fanciful spellings of place-names, faulty captions to photographs, misleading pieces of information and other minor inaccuracies that cannot avoid casting doubt as to the serious nature of an agency’s activities in the field. A typical example: a consultant called Travel in Morocco has a webpage devoted to the Eastern High Atlas with a description that goes like this: “ Situé à l’Est, c’est le massif marno-calcaire de Midelt à Imilchil, aux vastes plateaux d’altitude que borde en versant nord la cédraie primitive. Il culmine à l’Ayachi à 3747m.” Fair enough. Three illustrations are then provided; one of them shows the village of Oul-Ghazi situated several miles beyond Imilchil, well to the west, therefore out of the area referred to. Agreed, our remarks may be dismissed as niggling, and, let’s face it, these mistakes are probably not committed by the actual guides who go out into the field, but by ill-informed pen-pushers at home base. All the same, none of this carelessness looks good on paper and it lays the agency’s professionalism open to question.   

Regarding inaccuracies, these Marrakchi blokes operating out-of-area far to the east appear to have a spot of trouble registering local place-names. Here are a few examples:-  Imtchim for Imtchimen; Aboulkhir for Tiboulkheyrin (‘wild boars’, sing./plur. confusion);  Oued n-ouaqa, for Aqqa n-Ouyyad, ˂ aqqa n-uyyiḍ (‘river of the night’); Imi n-Tkhant for Imi n-Tkhamt (place-name at foot of ‘Ayyachi N slope meaning ‘tent entrance’); Tizi n-Bou Lassen for Tizi n-Bou Igoulassen (‘pass of the ripe barley’), a col between Tounfit and Assaka; Akhbalou n-Assaka, for Aghbalou n-Oussaka, (a mistake that argues ignorance of Berber grammar); Jbel Bou Eljallaber (sounding like a famous French cyclist and sports commentator, Jalabert!), for Jbel Bou Ijellaben. 

 E face of  Jbel Bou Ijellaben overlooks Tatrout gorge near Assaka village, July 1968 (photo: M. Peyron)

 There are also some faulty statements:-  Talking of climbers attempting ‘Ayyachi from Ja’afar one operator (Travelwizard) claims : “Early risers in good physical shape can climb to the top of the ridgeback (3737m/11,958ft) in about a two days’ hike”. Actually it takes about 5hr to reach the top; another 3-4hr to climb back down again. So, plan ahead for one day on the mountain, not two!

 

The spring of Inzar n-Oufounass is not on “Oued Ait Bou Arbi”, but several miles away to the West on Asif Toura n-Ayt Moussa! (Toguna Voyages).  Now consider the inaccurate description of a river-side picnic: “Déjeuner au bord de l’oued Mellouya qui prend sa source dans le Haut Atlas central à Zaouit Ahansal” (Aziz Rando & Tichka Trek). Actually not « Mellouya »  but Asif Toura n-Ayt Moussa, a headwater tributary of Ansegmir, which eventually flows into the Melwiya  ; furthermore, the Melwiya springs are situated between Tounfit and Aghbala in the Eastern High Atlas, whereas Zaouit Ahansal lies some 100 kilometres to the SW. Talk about shaky geography!

Conclusion

Because of indifferent accommodation, Midelt has unfortunately got itself a bad name over the years. Hardly anybody stays a second night there, anyway, because of its reputation as a town where there’s nothing to do. As a result it tends to be used as a whistle-stop for tourist coaches, or by over-nighters with off-road vehicles fresh from the pistes of the Deep South or Grand Atlas. Our answer to that is that Midelt’s pronounced frontier town atmosphere, together with the terrific sourrounding scenery of high steppe and snow-capped mountains more than make up for this. Also, plenty can be found on the spot, in terms of cool mountain air, artisans and mineral vendors, tasty apples to sample, or excursions in the vicinity, to keep the visitor happy. And as for the picturesque hotels, take them in your stride; make polite requests if you need service and try to retain fond memories of interesting, entertaining experiences to look back on later. Back from the trip, regale your guests at the inevitable after-dinner slideshow, with a « When I was in Midelt… », for curtain-raiser!

The Eastern High Atlas with ‘Ayyachi and the Imilchil Lakes as chief attractions has aroused interest among TOs over recent years. The Marrakech-based agencies, however, with their sketchy area knowledge, approximate brochure descriptions and somewhat supercilious attitude to the region, which they dismiss as the « Middle Atlas », do not deserve their present strangle-hold on the local market. Bearing in mind the tiresome 8-hour drive getting there if they choose Marrakech, visitors stand to gain by arriving through Fez and making arrangements with local guides and/or muleteers to take them up ‘Ayyachi, or through the cedar country between Tounfit and the Lakes Plateau. That, in fact, should become the rule of thumb, when approaching any of these out-of-the-way areas: always rely on the local lads to see you safely up the mountain and down the other side!

Miscellaneous items

  

    Front cover of Des Clark’s guidebook (photo: nomadic.morocco)

   1)  The above guidebook to the High Atlas by Des Clark, who has been living in Morocco for several years, is apparently now available, although actual availability status is not quite clear. The book deals with the winter ascents of Atlas summits (on foot or with snow-shoes) and as such will be a welcome source of information for a sizeable chunk of the mountaineering fraternity. Indeed, more and more people are attracted to the High Atlas in winter, when snow conditions pose an additional challenge, while weatherwise such trips usually prove far more rewarding than in summer in terms of clear skies and ideal light for photography.

  

   

    2) This eco-lodge run by Houssa Yakobi and his wife Michèle, situated among olive groves just outside Zawit ech-Cheikh, is ideally situated for motorists converging from Casablanca and/or Marrakech, who can put up here for the night en route for the Eastern High Atlas. Its quiet foothill location, friendly atmosphere and wholesome cuisine (mostly organic food) are highly recommended. Ourthane is an ideal base for bird-watching; also for excursions to the forested hill of Boumrar, to the pleasingly green, fertile expanses of Tit n-Zegza, or investigating interesting historical vestiges of the once powerful Ayt Yummur tribe in Aqqa n-Ibouhha. We warmly recommend this gîte.

   

    3) Henri Terrasse’s classic late-1930s book on Berber kasbahs of the Atlas and Deep South has recently (September 2010) been re-published by the Rabat-based Centre Jacques Berque and the French publishers Actes Sud. Architect and anthropologist Salima Naji, herself a Moroccan specialist of Berber vernacular architecture, has penned a scholarly and informative preface placing Terrasse’s work in its historical context. The result is a pleasing, 190-page volume profusely illustrated with fine sepia prints from the author’s personal collection, not to mention various other contributors, including line drawings by Théophile Jean-Delaye. A book to scan by the fireplace; a must for any « old Morocco hand »!

  Lone Backpacker

  michael.peyron@voila.fr

Michael PEYRON:  Curriculum vitae 

       

                                                                     Part I 

This web site contains biographical information on this researcher, of mixed Franco-Scots descente, specialized in Morocco’s Atlas mountains and Berber history and culture, together with a full list of his publications covering mountain exploration and field-work undertaken since 1964, not to mention his contribution to Berber studies and Atlas Mountain tourism through participation in various conferences and otherwise.

Address: 43, rue Thiers, 38000, Grenoble, France (michael.peyron@voila.fr).

Born: April 12, 1935, Cannes, Alpes Maritimes.

Parents: Frédéric Aimé Peyron of Hyères (Var) and Fiona Margaret MacIver from London, UK.

Married: to Josiane Yvette Maria FOLLET of Amiens (Picardy).

Children: Caroline Marthe, born June 20, 1970; Margaret Fiona, born July 12, 1972.

Education:

Ecole Nouvelle, Lausanne, Switzerland, 1942

Heysham pre-Preparatory school, Hampstead, UK, 1943

St Neot’s Preparatory school, Hants, UK, 1944-48

Clayesmore Public school, Dorset, UK, 1948-52

Institut Commercial du Maroc, Casablanca, Morocco, 1953-54

 Faculté des Lettres, Pessac, Bordeaux, France, 1966-72   Institut de Géographie Alpine, Genoble, France, 1972-75

    

   Michael Peyron at Lmerri village, E. High Atlas, Morocco, circa 1983 (photo: M. Barbaud)       

 Diplomas:  

 GCE exam: ‘O’ level pass in English; ‘AO’ in Latin, ‘A’ level passes in History & French, July 1952.    

Anglais militaire 2e degree , Meknès, 1957.

 Maîtrise d’Anglais, Bordeaux, July 1971.(Agrégation d’Anglais, Paris, July 1972).  Doctorat 3e cycle, Géographie humaine & rurale, IGA, Grenoble, 1975.

 Academic career:   English teacher, Berlitz School, Casablanca, 1964-70

English teacher, Centre Pratique Audio-Visuel, Casablanca 1970-72

Teacher/trainee at Centre Pédagogique Régional, Grenoble, 1972-73

Lecturer in English, Faculty of Letters, Rabat, 1973-88

Lecturer in English, LCM Champollion & Université STENDHAL, Grenoble III, 1988-95

Visiting professor, King Fahd Advanced school of Translation, Tangier, 1992-2001.

Visiting professor, University Al-Akhawayn in Ifrane (AUI), 1996-2009

Academic activities:

 Member, AFEMAM, 1989-98.Organiser, Oral Literature workshop, Faculty of Letters, Rabat, 1984-88Contributor, Encyclopédie Berbère, LAPMO, Aix-en-Provence, 1985-Contributor, Littérature orale Arabo-Berbère, UPR 414/CNRS, 1988-95Contributor, Etudes & Documents Berbères, Paris, 1990-Contributor, AWAL, Cahier d’études berbères, Paris, 1995-Associate researcher, IREMAM, Aix-en-Provence, 1998-At Al-Akhawayn University in Ifrane, taught a 5-week module, « Introduction to Amazighpoetry », April-may 1999; organised « Berber study days », on May 30, 2000, April 29, 2002& on March 17-18, 2003; co-organised a « Middle-Atlas cultural week », in April 2001 & an »Arabo-Berber Poetry Night », October 17, 2002; currently in charge of Amazigh-related activities & teaching BRB 1310 – a course in Berber History & Culture + COM 3323, Writing for the media (in French).

Mountaineering Activities:  An undistinguished career as mountain-plodder and ski-tourer, involving among other   Non-technical ascents in the Alps :- Le Rateau, les Bans, le Gioberney (Oisans), les Courtes(Mont Blanc), Brec de l’Homme,Pointe Joanne, (Queyras), Puy Gris, Rocher Blanc, Dent du Praz, Rogner, GrandsMoulins, Grand Charnier, Pic de la Belle Etoile, Croix de Belledonne (Belledonne range),L’Obiou, le Grand Veymont, (Dévoluy), etc..Has participated in some alpine ski outings :- Vallée Blanche (Chamonix) on two occasions, two stages of Chamonix-Zermatt ‘Haute Route’, Cime de la Jasse (Belledonne), Taillefer on three occasions, Combe Ratin,
(Plateau de Bure, Dévoluy), Parpaillon & Tour du Brec de Chambeyron (Queyras), etc.

In the Moroccan Atlas :- Several PD-AD climbing routes on Angour, Ighzer Tamda (Akswal), WSW ridge of Toubkal,  NE couloir Ras Wanoukrim, Wanoukrim Clochetons Traverse, Tazaghart snow couloir (all in Toubkal massif) ; Erdouz traverse, N face Jbel Ikkis, Ras Moulay Ali (Seksawa) ; Meldsen, Isk n-Yahya, Bou Wghyoul (Zat/ Ourika massif); Waougoulzat, Ighil Mgoun (Central HighAtlas). 

  Ski outings include Lépiney/Neltner traverse, Bou Igenwan (Toubkal massif); Azurki on three occasions, Zawiya Tamga/Anergui traverse via Jbel Taytriqt, Jbel Mouriq from Tasraft (Central High Atlas); Msedrid on two occasions & Isswal (Lakes Plateau, Imilchil); Azgaw, Ma’asker and ‘Ayyachi, each on several occasions via a variety of routesEastern High Atlas); Hayyan, Tichchoukt, Bou Iblan, last-named half a dozen times via different routes (Middle Atlas).Has been successively, President, French Alpine Club (C.A.F.), Rabat, 1975-85; also member, Alpine Club of London, 1994-  & member, « Les Amis du Refuge du Toubkal », 2000- Also other outings too numerous and varied to be recorded here.

Conference participation:

“L’évolution des rapports villes-campagnes”, Faculty of Letters, Rabat, 13-15 December, 1984. Colloque du Grand Meknès, Faculty of Letters, Meknes, October, 1985. “Trente années de recherché universitaire au Maroc”, Faculty of Letters, Rabat, October & December 1986.

Union of International Alpine Associations (UIAA), Marrakech, October 1987. 

AFEMAM Conference, Baume-lès-Aix, 26-28 June 1989. AFEMAM Conference, INALCO, Paris, July 1990. AFEMAM Conference, Urbama, Tours, July 1991.AFEMAM Conference, Toulouse-Le Mirail University, July 1992.EURAMES Conference, University of Warwick, UK, 8-11 July, 1993.« Fête de la Transhumance », Die, 17-26 June, 1994. AFEMAM Conference, Strasbourg, 30 June-3 July, 1994. « Peuples Berbères », 17th Douarnenez Film Festival, 21-28 August, 1994. « Table-ronde sur les etudes berbères », Faculty of Letters, Meknes, December 1994. « Fête de la Transhumance », Die, 17-25 June, 1995. Tafsut Imazighen, 25 March-6 April, 1996, Grenoble. AFEMAM Conference, Aix-en-Provence, July 1997. Tafsut Imazighen, 22 March-5 April, 1997, Grenoble.  Conference on sustainable development, Faculty of Letters, Marrakech, October 1997. AFEMAM Conference, Université Lumière-Lyon II, 2-4 July, 1998. « Estivales du Trièves », Monestier-du-Percy, 25 July, 1998. « Sustainable development in Sefrou province », Sefrou, September, 1998. « Berber Culture Festival », Rasa, Utrecht, Netherlands, 5-8 November, 1998. « Les couleurs de l’échange: du Maroc à l’Orient », Toulouse, July 1999.Sefrou colloqium (to honour Clifford Geertz), 4-6 May 2000. « Fête de la Transhumance », Die, June 2000. CERMOSEM Conference, Pradel, Ardèche, 18-20 September, 2000. « Political Discourse, theories of Colonialism & Post-Colonialism », British Council (Churchill Club), Casablanca, 12-14 April 2001.Sustainable Tourism workshop, British Days in Morocco, AUI (Ifrane), 5-6 March, 2002.First World Congress for Middle Eastern Studies, University of Mainz, Germany, September 8-13, 2002.“Les manuscrits berbères au Maghreb et dans les collections européennes”, Manumed/IREMAM, Aix-en-Provence, 9-10 December, 2002.

 

 Presentations:

  
  « Great Atlas Traverse », slide-lecture, American School, Rabat, April 1976. « Les Berbères du Haut Atlas marocain », Musée Dauphinois, Grenoble, March 1989. « La poésie berbère du Moyen-Atlas », Baume-lès-Aix, June 26, 1989. Colloque de Sefrou, Sefrou, April 9-11, 1992. « Poésies pastorales des transhumants du Moyen-Atlas marocain », Die, June 24, 1994.« De la Berbérie au 7e ciel : un poème épique marocain », Valcroissant Abbey, Die, June 23, 1995.« Proverbs of the Moroccan Atlas », Faculty of Letters, Meknes, March 1, 1996.  Hmad (Hammou) ou Namir », AUI, March 4,1996.« Middle Atlas poetry : past and present », Faculty of Letters, Meknes, February 28, 1997. « Analyse du poème Hammou Namir (tachelhiyt) » (AFEMAM, Atelier n° 65), Aix-en-Provence, July 1997.« The Moroccan mountaineer’s environmental perception », lecture given at Faculty of Letters in Marakech (August 29, 1997) & Faculty of Letters, Rabat (September 2, 1997) + at AUI, October 17, 1997.   “Orality & literacy, introduction”, AUI, HUM 5358 class, January 1998.“Communicative strategies in oral literature: Gaelic-inspired language & devices”, AUI, HUM 5358 class, January 1998. “The marks of orality in the Goddodin”, AUI, HUM 5358 class, February 1998. “Markers in oral tales: taŠelhit & warayni dialect”, AUI, HUM 5358 class, March 1998.(+ lectures on Finn MacCumhail, “Cattle raid of Cooley” & the tale of Deirdre, “Kulwch & Olwen”, “Beowulf”, Icelandic sagas, the Gilgamesh legend, etc., AUI, HUM 5358, spring 1998).« An introduction to Berber culture » for visiting students & faculty from University of Austin, Texas (UTA), AUI, end-May 1998. (A presentation repeated for the benefit of other UTA visitors in 1999, 2001 & 2002).« Moyen-Atlas & Haut Atlas oriental : une région uniforme », Sefrou, September 7,1998. « Culture shock & mountain tourism in the Moroccan Atlas », Capstone students, AUI, April 27, 1999.« Habitat rural & citadin au Maroc », Temps du Maroc, Grenoble, October 13, 1999. « Le Haut Atlas marocain », Fontaine en Montagne Cultural Festival, Fontaine, October 22, 1999 ;slide-lecture later repeated elsewhere in Grenoble area at « Autres Horizons », Seysssins, November 9, & at « Centre des Arts », Meylan, December 20, 1999.“Moroccan High Atlas”, slide-lecture, Trinity College, Oxford, UK, December 3, 1999. « Histoire & culture berbère », Musée Dauphinois, December 16, 1999.« The Ayt Yahya of Tounfit (Central Morocco) », Capstone students, AUI, February 3, 2000. « Amdyaz, the wandering bard of Berber culture « , AUI, April 3, 2000.“Self-taught Tamazight for a non-Moroccan”, AUI, May 30, 2000.“Poésies religieuses berbères”, Die, June 2000. « Poésie et religion chez les Berbères marocains », for Gilles Keppel and Sciences-Po (Paris) students, AUI, February 6, 2001.“Amazigh Poets of the Middle Atlas”, Churchill Club, Casablanca, April 2001. “From Jbal Fazaz to Middle Atlas; from boondocks to boom towns”, AUI, November 2001.« Rural tourism in the Moroccan Atlas », AUI, March 6, 2002. « Langue et culture amazighe : la problématique actuelle », Faculty of Letters, Beni Mellal, March 11, 2002.« Lectures de poesies amazighes », ENS Takkadoum, Rabat, March 26, 2002.« Contributions by a Franco-Scots student of Tamazight », AUI, April 29, 2002.« Berbers of the Moroccan Atlas », CNAC presentation, AUI, June 5, 2002. « Le classement des archives du fonds Roux « , IREMAM, Aix-en-Provence, December 9, 2002. « From Tazigzaout battle to Green March », AUI, « Amazigh Days », March 18, 2003.« Poésie amazighe dans le Moyen Atlas », CCF de Fès (April 25, 2003) & CCF de Meknès (April 26, 2003).

  Publications: a) Books

Tounfit et le pays Aït Yahia, Doctoral dissertation in geography, IGA, Grenoble, September 1975.

De l’Ayachi au Koucer: randonnées dans le Haut Atlas, French Alpine Club, Rabat, 1977.

La Grande Traversée de l’Atlas marocain (G.T.A.M.), Rabat: Imprimatlas, 1988 (1984).

Great Atlas Traverse Morocco, vol.1 Moussa gorges to Ayt Bou Wgemmaz, Goring: West Col, 1989.

Great Atlas Traverse Morocco, vol. 2 Ayt Bu Wgemmaz to Midelt including Middle Atlas and Saghro massif, Goring: West Col,1990.

Isaffen Ghbanin/ Rivières Profondes, poésies du Moyen-Atlas Marocain traduites et annotées, Casablanca: Wallada, 1993.

Vercors-Dévoluy: mountains and landscapes, Goring: West Col, 1994.

Provence: mountains and landscapes, Goring: West Col, 1998.Annotated Berber Bibliography, AUI, 2000. Poésies berbères de l’époque héroïque, Maroc central (1908-1932), Aix-en-Provence: Edisud, 2002.

Guide de trekking, Maroc, coffret Nathan, 2002.  

As co-author with H. Stroomer & C. Brenier-Estrine, Catalogue des archives berbères du fonds “Arsène Roux”, Köppe-Vogel RKVK, 2003.

Women braver than men: Berber heroines of the Moroccan Middle Atlas, AUI, 2003.

Hills of Defiance, a detailed history of the Berbers of the Moroccan Atlas (in preparation).

zi ti n dzizawt ar tawada tazizawt, Middle-Atlas Berber poetry 1932-1975 (in preparation). 

   b) Articles

 « Les massifs peu connus du Maroc », La montagne & alpinisme, April 1970: 262-268.« Le ski de haute montagne au Maroc », La montagne & alpinisme, February 1971: 19-28. « Autour du Jebel Masker », La montagne & alpinisme, 2/1973: 61-66. « Habitat rural dans le Haut Atlas de Midelt », revue de géographie alpine, 2/1976: 327-363.« La grande traversée de l’Atlas marocain », La montagne & alpinisme, 1/1977: 18-29.« Les chutes de neige dans l’Atlas marocain », revue de géographie alpine, 3/1980 : 237-254.

« A pas feutrés dans le Haut Atlas », La montagne & alpinisme, 1/1981: 78-85.

« Contribution à l’histoire du Haut Atlas oriental: les Ayt Yafelman », R.O.M.M., 38/1984-2: 117-135.

« Une forme dynamique de poésie orale: les izlan & timawayin du Moyen-Atlas (Maroc) », Langues & Littératures, Fac. des Lettres, Rabat, IV/1985: 161-185.

« D’Aghbala à Bab Bou Idir: la traversée du Moyen Atlas », La montagne & alpinisme, 4/1985: 38-41.

« An unusual case of bride quest: the Maghrebian ‘Lunja’ tale and its place in universal folklore », Langues & Littératures, Fac. des Lettres, Rabat, V/1986: 49-66. « Le rapports ville-campagne au Maroc: le cas des massifs orientaux de l’Atlas », L’évolution des rapports villes-campagnes au Maghreb, Rabat: Fac. des Lettres, Colloques & séminaires, n°10/1988: 157-163.« Poésie lyrique du Moyen-Atlas marocain », Petit Florilège du Moyen et Grand Atlas, (J.-F. Pierrier & Jenifer Payne, eds.), UIAA, 1988 : 9-12/40-42.« La poésies orales du Moyen-Atlas, fruste ou courtoise? », Actes du colloque du Grand Meknes, Meknes: Faculty of Letters, 1988: 413-419.« Un regard nouveau sur le combat du Msedrid (1er mai 1933) », Hespéris-Tamuda, Rabat: Faculty of Letters, vol.XXVI-XXVII, 1988-89: 197-206.« Spatialité et lexicologie dans la poésie amazigh », Langue et société au Maghreb, Rabat: Faculty of Letters, Colloques & séminaires n°13/1989: 71-81.« Chronique orale sur la vie des Ayt Merghad (1920-40), L.O.A.B., 21/1990: 93-102.« Procédés de mémorisation dans la poésie lyrique du Moyen-Atlas marocain », Les Etudes Littéraires Universitaires au Maroc, Rabat: Faculty of Letters, Colloques & séminaires n°18/1991: 9-16.« Deux contes berbères dans le parler des Ayt Ali ou Brahim de Tounfit (Haut Atlas marocain) », E.D.B., n°8/1991: 53-62.« Proverbes de l’Atlas marocain de Taza à Azilal », E.D.B., n°9/1992: 73-92.« Mutation en cours dans le mode de vie des Ayt Yafelman (Haut Atlas marocain) », Les cahiers d’URBAMA, n°7/1992: 81-98.« Une version berbère d’un conte des 1001 Nuits: 3emmi Lemerrakci », Langues & Littératures, Rabat: Faculty of Letters, vol. XI/1993:

« Continuité et changement dans une zone de transition au Maroc: la Haute-Moulouya et le Haut Atlas de Midelt », Les régions de piémont au Maghreb: ressources & aménagement, Tours: Les cahiers d’URBAMA, 18/1994: 71-79.

« Tradition orale et résistance armée: la bataille des Ayt Yâqoub (Haut-Atlas, 1929) », E.D.B., 12/1994: 5-16.

« Notes concernant l’agencement des timawayin (strophes) du Moyen-Atlas marocain », L.O.A.B., 1995/22-23: 53-60.

« Middle Atlas Berber poetry », The Alpine Journal, London, vol.10/n°344, 1995: 96-99.

« En marge de la GTAM : réflexions sur certains aspects du tourisme sportif dans l’Atlas marocain », Actes du colloque international : Quel avenir pour le tourisme en montagne au Maroc, Marrakech, 18-21 November 1995, Royal Air Maroc :107-114.

« La poésie tamazight du Moyen-Atlas marocain. Discours identitaire ou identité affirmée », Sociétés et cultures musulmanes d’hier et d’aujourd’hui, Paris: AFEMAM, 1996: 29-32.

« Les bardes berbères face à la pénétration militaire française: Maroc central (1914-1933), AWAL, 14/1996: 47-73.

« L’école Roi Fahd de traduction », Tanger au miroir d’elle-même, Toulouse: Horizons maghrébins, 31/32, printemps 1996: 218-221.

« Ernest Gellner and the studies on Berber societies », L’Astrolabe: le semestre de l’AFEMAM, Aix-en-Provence, 1996: 60-62.

« La saga des Aït Bou Slama », E.D.B., n°14/1996: 75-95.

« La mujer tamazight del Marruecos central », El Vigia de Tierra, Melilla, 1996/97 : 139-151.

« Further research on ‘timawayin’ from Central Morocco », J.N.A.S., n°1 (Summer 1997) pp.72-80.

« Combattants du Maroc central: une résistance morcelée (1912-33) », AWAL, 16/1997: 25-41.

« Les montagnards de l’Atlas marocain et leur perception du milieu naturel », Montagnes Méditerranéennes, 7/1998: 139-142.

« Entre haine & amour: officiers des A.I. et tribus dissidentes (Atlas marocain, 1914-56) », in AWAL, 19/1999: 9-18. « Le mariage chez les Ayt Yafelman du Haut Atlas marocain », E.D.B., n°17/1999: 165-173.« Poésies de résistance (Maroc central, 1908-1933) », in La Revue des Deux Rives, n°2/2001 : 139-154.« Les inadéquations entre savoir & développement: le cas du Moyen-Atlas marocain », Montagnes Méditeranéennes, 12/2000: 49-52.« Les couleurs dans l’oralité des Imazighen du Maroc central », Horizons Maghrébins, Toulouse, 42/2000 : 118-124.« Amazigh poetry of the resistance period (Central Morocco), J.N.A.S., n°1(Spring 2000) pp.109-120. « Qala’at al-Mahdi: place-forte des hérétiques Barghawata dans le Moyen-Atlas marocain (XIe siècle) », AWAL, 25/2002: 105-110.« Qala’at al-Mahdi : a pre-Almoravid fortress in the Moroccan Middle-Atlas », J.N.A.S., Summer 2003. « French actions in the Algerian revolution were necessary as part of a wider crusade against Communism « ,(16a) History in Dispute series, (David Lesch ed., in the press). “Classifying North Africa as primarily Arab tends to ignore the cultural, social and political influence of the Berbers”, (67b) History in Dispute series (David Lesch ed., in the press).  

 c) Book reviews

 D. M. Hart, Dadda ‘Atta & his forty grandsons, in R.O.M.M., 1982-2: 149-150. M. Taifi, Dictionnaire tamazight-français & E. Laoust, Noces berbères (C. Lefébure, éd.), in Prologues, n°3/1994 : 52-54. J. Borgé & N. Viasnoff, Archives du Maroc + M. Williams & G. Watterson, An anthology of Moroccan short stories, in Annuaire de l’Afrique du Nord, XXXIV, 1995: 1013,1140. A. Bounfour, Le noeud de la langue, Edisud: Aix-en-Provence, 1994, in AWAL, 14/1996: 147-150. D.M. Hart, Emilio Blanco Izaga, Coronel en el Rif, Melilla, 1995, in AWAL, 14/1996: 150-163. « Graphie berbère: Pour qui? Pour quoi faire? », in AWAL, 14/1996: 156. U.K. Hart, Behind the Courtyard Door, & M. Williams & G. Waterson, An Anthology of Moroccan Short Stories, in J.N.A.S., vol.1, n°3, Winter 1996: 312-313. J. Podeur, Textes berbères des Aït Souab: Anti-Atlas, Maroc, (N. Van Boogert & H. Stroomer eds.), in AWAL, 15/1997: 108-110. H. Jouad, Le calcul de l’inconscient de l’improvisation: poésie berbère, rythme, nombre et sens, Paris & Louvain, Peeters, 1995 in AWAL, 15/1997: 110-112. M. Courtney-Clarke & G. Brooks, Imazighen: the vanishing traditions of Berber women, in Morocco: the Journal of the Society for Moroccan studies, London, n°2/1997: 92-93.

M.R. Olsen, Chants & danses de l’Atlas (Maroc), in AWAL, 17/1998 : 140-142.

D.M. Hart, Estructuras tribales precoloniales en Marruecos bereber, 1860-1933 : une reconstruccion etnografica en perspectiva historica ; M. Quitout, Grammaire berbère (rifain, tamazight, chleuh, kabyle) ; N. Van den Boogert, « La révélation des énigmes ». Lexiques arabo-berbères des XVIIe & XVIIIe siècles ; AWAL, 19/1999 : 151-157.

M. Gershovich, French Military Rule in Morocco : Colonialism & its consequences, London: Frank Cass, 2000, in AWAL, 24/2001: 122-123. D.M. Hart, Tribe & Society in Rural Morocco, London: Frank Cass, 2000, in AWAL , 24/2001: 124-125.

P. Galand-Pernet, Littérature berbère : des voix et des lettres, Paris: P.U.F., 1998, + M.P. Rauzier ; C. Tréal, J-M. Ruiz, Tableaux du Haut Atlas marocain, Paris: Arthaud, 1998, in La Revue des Deux Rives, n°2/2001: 169-172 & 173-176.

D. Rivet, Le Maroc de Lyautey à Mohammed V: le double visage du Protectorat, Paris: Denöel, 1999, in AWAL, 25/2002: 122-129. 

 d) Entries in Encyclopédie berbère (Aix-en-Provence):-

 A182. Amazan, IV/1987: 561-562.

 A335. ‘Ayyachi, Jbel (Aari n-ou ‘Ayyach), VIII/1990: 1200-1204.

 B55. Belgassem Ngadi, IX/1991: 1434-1435.

 B56. Ben Barakat, ‘Ali (Ou-Barka ‘Ali), IX/1991: 1435-1436.

 B96. Bou Zert (Bni, Ayt Warayn – aperçu linguistique), X/1991: 1579-1584.

 C42. Chants – Chants berbères du Maroc, XII/1993: 1862-1869.

 D10. Danse – domaine berbère marocain, XIV/1994: 2204-2213.

 D36. Derkaoua, XV/1995: 2279-2283.

 D39. Devinettes du domaine berbère marocain, XV/1995: 2287-2289.

 D50. Dila’, XV/1995: 2340-2345.D57.

 Djalut, XVI/1995: 2375-2376.D57.

 Djich, XVI/1995: 2466-2468.

 D93. Dromadaire (domaine montagnard marocain), XVII/1996: 2547-2550.

 F4. Fantasia, XVIII/1997: 2721-2727.F10. Fazaz (Jbel), XVIII: 2745-2747. G56. Glaoui/Glaoua, XXI/1999: 3151-3160 ; + Greniers de falaise, XXI/1999: 3219-3220.H6. Hadiddou (Ayt), XXI/1999: 3278-3283.H42. Hérisson – dans la littérature orale du Maroc, XXII/2000: 3448-3451.H48. Hibou (Atlas marocain), XXII/2000: 3458-3459. I 15. Ichqern, XXIII/2000: 3612-3617.

I 48. Imhiwach, XXIV/2001: 3694-3703.

Izli, XXV, (in the press)  

                                                   

 PART II     2003-2010

This updates that part of the present CV that appears above on my website (which was valid up to and including early 2003), and includes some late-published material.  

 Publications : 

 a) Books :

H. Stroomer & M. Peyron, Catalogue des Archives berbères du « Fonds Arsène Roux », Köln, Rüdiger Köppe Verlag, 2003.
  

 Amazigh Days at Al Akhawayn University : paving the way for Tifinagh, (Michael Peyron ed.), Ifrane AUI Press, 2004.
 

The Amazigh Studies Reader, (Michael Peyron, ed.), Ifrane, AUI Press, 2006.
 

Journée amazighe à l’Université Al-Akhawayn, Colloque : « Sites de mémoire et tradition orale amazighe », M. Peyron (éd.), Ifrane, AUI Press, 2007.
 

Tassawt Voices, M. n-Ayt Attiq & R. Euloge, (M. Peyron, trans.), Ifrane, AUI Press, 2008. 

Birds at Al Akhawayn, Ifrane : Al Akhawayn University Press, 2010. 

Berber Odes: Poetry from the Mountains of Morocco, London, Eland Books, 2010.

b) Articles :

“Le mariage chez les Ayt Yafelman de l’Atlas marocain”, E.D.B., n°17/1999 : 153-174.
 “Amdyaz, the wandering bard of Berber poetry”, E.D.B., n°18/2000: 104-110.
“Izli”, Encyclopédie Berbère, (S. Chaker éd.), Aix-en-P., Édisud, XXV, 2003 : 3828-3832.
“From Tazizgzaout battle to Green March”, Amazigh Days at AUI, Ifrane, AUI Press, 2004: 103-112.
“Langue poétique littéraire : enjeux et mutations chez les poètes du Maroc central”, La littérature amazighe : oralité et écriture, spécificités et perspectives, Rabat, I.R.C.A.M., 2004 : 191-199.
“L’éco-tourisme comme levier de développement des ressources territoriales: le cas des massifs orientaux de l’Atlas marocain”, Montagnes Méditerranéennes, 2004, n°20 : 187-194.
 “Bringing Berber literature out of the academic wilderness”, Expressions maghrébines, Universistat de Barcelona & Florida State University, (Marta Segarra, ed.), Vol.4, n°1, summer 2005: 15-33.
“Khénifra”, Encylcopédie Berbère, (S. Chaker éd.), Aix-en-P., Édisud, XXVII, 2005 : 4236-4239.
“Le paysage imaginaire de la poésie amazighe du Moyen-Atlas”, Linguistique amazighe : les nouveaux horizons, (A. Allati, éd.), Tétouan, Fac. des Lettres, 2006 : 224-236.
“Barghawata et résistance”, La résistance marocaine à travers l’histoire, ou le Maroc des résistances, Rabat, I.R.C.A.M., 2005 : 165-181.

“Oralité et résistance: dits poétiques et non poétiques ayant pour thème le siège du Tazizaout (Haut Atlas marocain, 1932)”, E.D.B., n°25-26/2007 : 307-316.

“Women and water management and water-related issues in the Atlas mountains”, Proceedings of the International Workshop on Women in Water management, Ifrane, AUI, 2007.

“From Jbel Fazaz to Middle Atlas: from boondocks to boom towns; the past as key to the present”, North African Mosaic: a cultural reappraisal of ethnic and religious minorities, (N. Boudraa & J. Krause, eds.), Newcastle, Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2007: 258-268.

“Kousser”, Encyclopédie Berbère (S. Chaker éd.), XXVIII (2008). 

 « Tazizaout : une bataille oubliée », La bataille de Tazizaout – 1932 – entre écrits et oralité, OCADD, Cahier n°1/2008 : 3-8.   

« Emprunts, manipulations et confusion des genres izli, tamawayt, tayffart, et tamdyazt dans la poésie tamazighte épique : le cas de Tazizaout », Les types poétiques amazighes traditionnels, Rabat : IRCAM, 2009 : 75-86. 

« Hostilités académiques: approches conflictuelles à propos de Imazighen du Maroc central », IRCAM conference proceedings, Fès, May 2009 (in the press).

« Recent cases of incomplete academic research on Morocco’s Berbers », JNAS, vol.  15, issue 2, June 2010: 157-171.

«Wild life conservation in Morocco’s Eastern Atlas ranges », Maroc: tourisme et développement local,(M. G. Luica & H. Ramou, éds.), Paris & Torino : L’Harmattan, 2010 : 270-286.

c) Book reviews :

Chantal de la Véronne, Yaghmurasen. Premier souverain de la dynastie berbère des Abd-el-Wadides de Tlemcen, Saint-Denis, Bouchène, 2002.Abdelaziz Allati, Diachronie tamazighte ou berbère, Tétouan, Université Abdelmalek Essaâdi, 2002. Fatima Sadiqi and Moha Ennaji, A Grammar of Amazigh, Fès, Dhar El Mehraz, 2004, in AWAL, Cahier d’Études berbères, n°31/2005: 139-148.
Salima Naji, Greniers collectives de l’Atlas: patrimoines du Sud marocain, Casablanca, La Croisée des Chemins/Édisud, 2006, in AWAL, Cahier d’Études berbères (sous presse).  

                    

 d) Presentations:

“Issues which Middle Atlas women have to face”, Dr. J. Shoup’s social anthropology class, AUI, April 19, 2006.
  “Les femmes du Moyen-Atlas”, Atlas Tiwtmin’s Day, AUI, 05/03/2007.
“Poésie amazighe”, Atlas Tiwtmin’s Day, AUI, 05/03/2008. 

  »Amazigh history and culture », AUI, for students visiting from Harvard University (USA), 22/03/2010.

Lectures on « Amazigh History & Culture » to US students at AMIDEAST, Rabat, spring semester 2009 - 

      

e)

Conference participation:

Colloque sur la poésie amazighe, I.R.C.A.M., Rabat, 23-25 octobre 2003.
Colloque sur la résistance amazighe, I.R.C.A.M., Rabat, novembre 2003.
Colloque « la notion de ressource territoriale », CERMOSEM, Le Pradel, 14-15 octobre 2004.
Linguistique amazighe : les nouveaux horizons, colloque à la Faculté des Lettres de Tétouan, 17-19 février 2005.
“Le rôle politico-social des imdyazn du Haut Atlas oriental”, Atelier sur le Patrimoine National Oral, sous la direction de Mostafa El-Chadli, Marrakech, 25 février, 2005.
   Popular Cultures Conference, jointly organised by Oxford University and AUI,
April, 2006.
 

 “Amazigh Day” conference, Ifrane AUI, April 2006.

 “Journée sur la bataille de Tazizaout”, Faculté des Lettres, Beni Mellal, 19 mars,
2007.

Mountain tourism workshop, Al-Akhawayn University, Ifrane, April 17, 2007.

“Les almu-s et agdal-s de l’Atlas oriental: état des lieux”, Conférence International, mai 2007, Marrakech.
 

 Instructor at Berber Summer Institute, Corwallis, Oregon State University, USA, June  24-July 10, 2007.  

 “Choreography in MiddleAtlas aḥidus dancing”, Amazigh Day 2008, Ifrane, AUI, April 2008.   

 Two lectures on Amazigh culture, at Middle East Studies centre, St. Anthony’s, Oxford, UK, Oct. 2008.

Symposium Sport/Nature :  »Colloqe sur  les pratiques innovantes dans le tourisme », CERMOSEM, Le Pradel,  Ardèche, Nov. 2008. 

Amazigh Day , AUI, March 25, 2009. « Atlas Mountains: Space and Spciety ».  Conference in honor of Professor Michael Peyron, jointly organised by the SHSS/AUI & IRCAM at Al Akhawayn University, Ifrane, April 8-9, 2010.

michael.peyron@voila.fr