By Anita Rao-Kashi
I see them for the first time almost as soon as I begin wandering around the city — bright, shiny, plump, deep red hearts. They are everywhere in multiple sizes, hanging on strings, decorated with white trimmings and delectable. I quickly realize why Zagreb — Croatia’s capital — is called the city with a million hearts. Called licitars, akin to gingerbread, they are an integral part of Croatian culture and a symbol of Zagreb; they are gifted during times of celebration, be it weddings, birthdays or Christmas. But more than anything else, they symbolize the warmth and energy running through the city itself. And everywhere I go, the heart is a leitmotif that manifests itself in a hundred different intangible ways.
Old World Charm
Standing on the cusp of central and western Europe, straddling the historical and the modern, Zagreb is full of stories and monuments that mark the passage of time. Divided into lower and upper towns, Old Zagreb is quite compact and almost all the sights are within walking distance. The Lower Town (Donji Grad) is a grid of beautiful Baroque buildings housing museums and galleries, characterized by the influence of the Austro–Hungarian empire interspersed with lovely green parks, while the hilly Upper Town (Gornji Grad), accessed by a quaint and pretty funicular, is marked by a plethora of churches, cobblestoned streets and the distinctive feel of a bygone era with gas street lamps and the heaviness of history.
Heart of the Matter
It is debatable where the heart of the Upper Town lies. The 13th century Romanesque Church of St Mark with its roof of spectacularly colourful ceramic tiles depicting the flags of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia is eye-catching. More so because it forms the background for the elaborate changing of guard ceremony every weekend. I stand mesmerized as nattily dressed soldiers accessorized with the famous cravat (which originated in Croatia and gradually evolved into the neck tie) march up and down and switch places.
If the church is eye-catching, the Zagreb Cathedral, its twin spires towering over almost the entire city, is equally arresting. Built in neo-Gothic style with Renaissance walls, the inside is dominated by massive chandeliers which throw light over beautiful sculptures on the walls and stained glass windows. I am there when the evening mass is in progress and the whole place reverberates with hymns and an air of piety.
Unarguably, the heart of Zagreb’s history and heritage lies in the Upper Town’s Zagreb City Museum. Tucked away amid narrow streets flanked by magnificent buildings, the museum is housed in the former convent of St Clare. It is easy to spend more than a couple of hours there, tracing the city’s history from the Iron Age through various phases and ending with the turbulent communist era and the eventual disintegration of Yugoslavia.
Art and Craft
In Zagreb’s Lower Town, the heart beats to several different rhythms. The streets are in a perfect grid pattern, containing a plethora of museums housed in beautiful heritage structures. Each is more mesmerising than the other, and I wander around, unable to decide which ones I want to see.
My choices include the Arts and Crafts Museum housed in a 19th century building in Marshal Tito Square, a rich treasure trove of history and heritage with over 1,00,000 artifacts. Adjacent to it is the neo-Baroque style Croatian National Theatre which gathers under its roof opera, ballet and drama, in contemporary and classic styles from within Croatia as well as outside.
A few minutes away, in King Tomislav Square stands the elegant Art Pavilion which was originally in Budapest but was dismantled, transported and re-assembled in Zagreb. Opposite this is the main railway station, Glavni Kolodvor, built in a mix of Renaissance and Neo-Classical elements and is rumoured to have been specially constructed to suit the glamour and elegance of the legendary Orient Express.
Next door is of course the magnificent Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 especially for the passengers of the Orient Express. But I opt for the Mimara Museum in Roosevelt Square, a brooding Neo-Renaissance palace, housing art from ancient Egypt and Greece to masters such as Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens, Goya and Velasquez.
Some Soul-searching
Quite apart from museums, I feel Zagreb’s heart also lies in the many monuments that dot the city. I find them round every corner, in the middle of every square and in front of many of the heritage buildings. Called ‘the mushroom’, an ornate fountain with carved layers sits in a park Nikola Subic Zrinski Square, gurgling water while children in colourful clothes merrily run around it. Elsewhere, I come across a statue of King Tomislav, Croatia’s first king, on a horse, St George slaying the dragon, sculptures of scientist Nikola Tesla, novelist Marija Juric Zagorka and writer Marko Marulic.
But it was in front of the Croatian National Theatre that I find Zagreb’s soul, so to speak. Created by Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic and titled the Well of Life, it is a bronze art work depicting a set of intertwined nudes protecting a well filled with water. Some even appear to be reaching out to scoop the water suggesting the insatiable human zest for life. As symbols go, it is a powerful one and I come away immersed in thoughts of universal human emotions and desires.
As I criss-cross the city, I notice that Zagreb’s heart also lies in the copious amounts of greenery that fill the city. Not only are the streets lined with trees but green squares and parks are visible every few blocks, most of them lined with linden trees, a traditional symbol of luck in Croatia. Between these are even larger ones for people to stroll or just relax.
The city also has two massive parks. Running parallel to the railway tracks near the main station is the Botanical Gardens, an oasis of greenery and peace in the centre of the city with over 10,000 trees and plants and pretty water bodies with bridges and lotuses. The other one, Maksimir Park, sits just outside the city centre toward the east. It is a sprawling green area with a mix of lawns, tall trees, walking paths and ponds with swans and ducks, and a lovely zoo to keep not just the children occupied but also give a serene place to the adults.
If the city’s parks and gardens are havens of tranquillity, Zagreb’s squares, when not occupied by gardens, are places where the city’s heartbeats are heard the loudest. They play host to either pavement cafes or openair markets, or sometimes both, and are great places to watch humanity in action.
I arrive early one morning at Dolac market, the city’s biggest, which is a mix of closed- and open-air markets, dating back to the early 20th century. I find fresh fruit, vegetables, cheeses, breads, meats, fish and flowers and a vibrant and noisy ambience to go with it. Open from dawn till late afternoon, I opt to sit and sip a cup of coffee while natives good-naturedly haggle over produce and exchange gossip.
In the evenings, I prefer to perch on a chair at one of the dozens of pavement cafés found everywhere in the city — in alleys, squares, by the side of parks, on inclines. They not only serve smashing coffee but turn into pubs by evening. Giant television screens show football, tennis or Formula 1 races and I cheer alongside the locals or let various streams of conversation wash over me as the sun sets and a gentle breeze sweeps through.
Close to the Heart
As my stay winds up rapidly, I contemplate about the many kinds of hearts that Zagreb proudly wears on its sleeve. To be fair, the city even caters to the brokenhearted as I discover at the Museum of Broken Relationships, housed in a beautiful building with an arched entrance and passages given to exhibits submitted by people all over the world who have not had it so lucky in love. Aimed at serving as a cathartic experience, the museum professes to provide expression for hurt and pain, and closure for those seeking to move on. A cafe with soul-satisfying beverages and food completes the picture.
While the museum offers a fun, humourous, emotional and even pithy way of letting go, the 19th century Mirogoj Cemetery is all about keeping the dearly departed close to heart. As cemeteries go, it is spectacular to say the least. Located at a little distance from the city on a low hill, it is fronted by a massive and beautifully domed church, and is filled with monumental arcades, pavilions, gateways and ivy covered walls. Built by architect and builder Herman Bollé, it is the final resting place for hundreds of thousands of people in more than 60,000 family plots, including some of Croatia’s most famous personalities from politics, arts and sports.
As I prepare to leave, I realize that Zagreb’s heart lies not in one place. And such is its charm and magnetism that it can ensnare every visitor. I think I will leave a bit of my own heart back in Zagreb. But then again, I buy a licitar heart, and a piece of Zagreb will now be with me, gently reminding me of the thrum of a place located thousands of miles away.
The author is a Bangalore-based travel and food writer
I see them for the first time almost as soon as I begin wandering around the city — bright, shiny, plump, deep red hearts. They are everywhere in multiple sizes, hanging on strings, decorated with white trimmings and delectable. I quickly realize why Zagreb — Croatia’s capital — is called the city with a million hearts. Called licitars, akin to gingerbread, they are an integral part of Croatian culture and a symbol of Zagreb; they are gifted during times of celebration, be it weddings, birthdays or Christmas. But more than anything else, they symbolize the warmth and energy running through the city itself. And everywhere I go, the heart is a leitmotif that manifests itself in a hundred different intangible ways.
Old World Charm
Standing on the cusp of central and western Europe, straddling the historical and the modern, Zagreb is full of stories and monuments that mark the passage of time. Divided into lower and upper towns, Old Zagreb is quite compact and almost all the sights are within walking distance. The Lower Town (Donji Grad) is a grid of beautiful Baroque buildings housing museums and galleries, characterized by the influence of the Austro–Hungarian empire interspersed with lovely green parks, while the hilly Upper Town (Gornji Grad), accessed by a quaint and pretty funicular, is marked by a plethora of churches, cobblestoned streets and the distinctive feel of a bygone era with gas street lamps and the heaviness of history.
Heart of the Matter
It is debatable where the heart of the Upper Town lies. The 13th century Romanesque Church of St Mark with its roof of spectacularly colourful ceramic tiles depicting the flags of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia is eye-catching. More so because it forms the background for the elaborate changing of guard ceremony every weekend. I stand mesmerized as nattily dressed soldiers accessorized with the famous cravat (which originated in Croatia and gradually evolved into the neck tie) march up and down and switch places.
If the church is eye-catching, the Zagreb Cathedral, its twin spires towering over almost the entire city, is equally arresting. Built in neo-Gothic style with Renaissance walls, the inside is dominated by massive chandeliers which throw light over beautiful sculptures on the walls and stained glass windows. I am there when the evening mass is in progress and the whole place reverberates with hymns and an air of piety.
Unarguably, the heart of Zagreb’s history and heritage lies in the Upper Town’s Zagreb City Museum. Tucked away amid narrow streets flanked by magnificent buildings, the museum is housed in the former convent of St Clare. It is easy to spend more than a couple of hours there, tracing the city’s history from the Iron Age through various phases and ending with the turbulent communist era and the eventual disintegration of Yugoslavia.
Art and Craft
In Zagreb’s Lower Town, the heart beats to several different rhythms. The streets are in a perfect grid pattern, containing a plethora of museums housed in beautiful heritage structures. Each is more mesmerising than the other, and I wander around, unable to decide which ones I want to see.
My choices include the Arts and Crafts Museum housed in a 19th century building in Marshal Tito Square, a rich treasure trove of history and heritage with over 1,00,000 artifacts. Adjacent to it is the neo-Baroque style Croatian National Theatre which gathers under its roof opera, ballet and drama, in contemporary and classic styles from within Croatia as well as outside.
A few minutes away, in King Tomislav Square stands the elegant Art Pavilion which was originally in Budapest but was dismantled, transported and re-assembled in Zagreb. Opposite this is the main railway station, Glavni Kolodvor, built in a mix of Renaissance and Neo-Classical elements and is rumoured to have been specially constructed to suit the glamour and elegance of the legendary Orient Express.
Next door is of course the magnificent Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 especially for the passengers of the Orient Express. But I opt for the Mimara Museum in Roosevelt Square, a brooding Neo-Renaissance palace, housing art from ancient Egypt and Greece to masters such as Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens, Goya and Velasquez.
Some Soul-searching
Quite apart from museums, I feel Zagreb’s heart also lies in the many monuments that dot the city. I find them round every corner, in the middle of every square and in front of many of the heritage buildings. Called ‘the mushroom’, an ornate fountain with carved layers sits in a park Nikola Subic Zrinski Square, gurgling water while children in colourful clothes merrily run around it. Elsewhere, I come across a statue of King Tomislav, Croatia’s first king, on a horse, St George slaying the dragon, sculptures of scientist Nikola Tesla, novelist Marija Juric Zagorka and writer Marko Marulic.
But it was in front of the Croatian National Theatre that I find Zagreb’s soul, so to speak. Created by Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic and titled the Well of Life, it is a bronze art work depicting a set of intertwined nudes protecting a well filled with water. Some even appear to be reaching out to scoop the water suggesting the insatiable human zest for life. As symbols go, it is a powerful one and I come away immersed in thoughts of universal human emotions and desires.
As I criss-cross the city, I notice that Zagreb’s heart also lies in the copious amounts of greenery that fill the city. Not only are the streets lined with trees but green squares and parks are visible every few blocks, most of them lined with linden trees, a traditional symbol of luck in Croatia. Between these are even larger ones for people to stroll or just relax.
The city also has two massive parks. Running parallel to the railway tracks near the main station is the Botanical Gardens, an oasis of greenery and peace in the centre of the city with over 10,000 trees and plants and pretty water bodies with bridges and lotuses. The other one, Maksimir Park, sits just outside the city centre toward the east. It is a sprawling green area with a mix of lawns, tall trees, walking paths and ponds with swans and ducks, and a lovely zoo to keep not just the children occupied but also give a serene place to the adults.
If the city’s parks and gardens are havens of tranquillity, Zagreb’s squares, when not occupied by gardens, are places where the city’s heartbeats are heard the loudest. They play host to either pavement cafes or openair markets, or sometimes both, and are great places to watch humanity in action.
I arrive early one morning at Dolac market, the city’s biggest, which is a mix of closed- and open-air markets, dating back to the early 20th century. I find fresh fruit, vegetables, cheeses, breads, meats, fish and flowers and a vibrant and noisy ambience to go with it. Open from dawn till late afternoon, I opt to sit and sip a cup of coffee while natives good-naturedly haggle over produce and exchange gossip.
In the evenings, I prefer to perch on a chair at one of the dozens of pavement cafés found everywhere in the city — in alleys, squares, by the side of parks, on inclines. They not only serve smashing coffee but turn into pubs by evening. Giant television screens show football, tennis or Formula 1 races and I cheer alongside the locals or let various streams of conversation wash over me as the sun sets and a gentle breeze sweeps through.
Close to the Heart
As my stay winds up rapidly, I contemplate about the many kinds of hearts that Zagreb proudly wears on its sleeve. To be fair, the city even caters to the brokenhearted as I discover at the Museum of Broken Relationships, housed in a beautiful building with an arched entrance and passages given to exhibits submitted by people all over the world who have not had it so lucky in love. Aimed at serving as a cathartic experience, the museum professes to provide expression for hurt and pain, and closure for those seeking to move on. A cafe with soul-satisfying beverages and food completes the picture.
While the museum offers a fun, humourous, emotional and even pithy way of letting go, the 19th century Mirogoj Cemetery is all about keeping the dearly departed close to heart. As cemeteries go, it is spectacular to say the least. Located at a little distance from the city on a low hill, it is fronted by a massive and beautifully domed church, and is filled with monumental arcades, pavilions, gateways and ivy covered walls. Built by architect and builder Herman Bollé, it is the final resting place for hundreds of thousands of people in more than 60,000 family plots, including some of Croatia’s most famous personalities from politics, arts and sports.
As I prepare to leave, I realize that Zagreb’s heart lies not in one place. And such is its charm and magnetism that it can ensnare every visitor. I think I will leave a bit of my own heart back in Zagreb. But then again, I buy a licitar heart, and a piece of Zagreb will now be with me, gently reminding me of the thrum of a place located thousands of miles away.
The author is a Bangalore-based travel and food writer
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