Best in Show: Fall 2012

A soft gray smoky eye paired with a glossy burgundy lip portrays "gothic elegance and dark romance," says makeup artist Pat McGrath, who crafted the look at Viktor & Rolf. Try CoverGirl Eye Enhancers 4-Kit Shadows in Urban Basics, and Pro Longwear Absolutely It Lip Pencil topped with Lipglass, both by M.A.C

The Look: At Michael Kors, a soft pink flush bloomed both on the runway and off. Shiseido artistic director Dick Page had editors blushing backstage about his racy inspiration: “It’s the look after a morning of skiing, an hour in a hot tub, or some good sex.” In Paris, Pat McGrath, P&G’s global creative director, was less risqué, citing ballerinas as the muses for the models at Dior.

Seen At: Dior, Issa, Michael Kors, Temperley

DIY: Page smudged red lipstick on cheeks, blending with a damp foundation sponge, while McGrath opted for a cream blush. Concentrate a pink shade on just the apples for a youthful glow.

Crimson lips add “an overall brightness,” Page says. Dab liquid foundation over bare lips, then draw on a hot hue and blot with a tissue. Apply once more, and you’re set.

Estée Lauder Pure Color Blush in Electric Pink; YSL Rouge Pur Couture lipstick in 201;Revlon PhotoReady cream blush in Flushed; Shiseido Lacquer Rouge in Drama; Laura Geller Ombré Blush in Pink Blossom

The Look: Perhaps Katniss Everdeen is to blame (The Hunger Games and fashion week do have certain similarities) for the plaits—in many forms—that staged a comeback this season. “A pulled-back braid looks strong in the front while being feminine in the back,” says Luigi Murenu, John Frieda global creative consultant.

Seen At: Ferragamo, Marc Jacobs, Max Mara, Ohne Titel, Pucci

DIY: The classic braid at Ohne Titel is a functional, chic alternative to a ponytail. Work a serum through wet strands and blow-dry for a smooth finish. Draw a hard side or middle part, and fasten a ponytail at the nape of the neck. Weave hair into a braid and secure ends with a second hair tie.

A bun. For sleek sophistication, coil braids around an elastic and set with bobby pins, like Murenu did at Max Mara.

Mason Pearson Tail Comb; John Frieda Frizz-Ease Sheer Solution; Sedu Revolution Shortie Styler; Redken Forceful 23 hairspray

The Look: With ornate accessories, sometimes hair serves as a humble backdrop. At Dolce & Gabbana, baroque headbands were secured over low buns, while at Rodarte, hair was tucked into faux bobs and fastened with celestial gold barrettes designed to look like shooting stars.

Seen At: Cacharel, Dolce & Gabbana, Oscar de la Renta, Rodarte

DIY: Ornaments can transform a simple style into “a look that’s really beautiful and exquisite,” says Guido Palau, Redken creative consultant. A smooth base is key—nix flyaways and frizz with a few drops of argan oil worked over dry strands.

A side part adorned with colorful (and economical) slide barrettes. At Cacharel, lengths were pulled into a low bun, making the look sophisticated, not schoolgirl.

Pureology Precious Oil Versatile Caring Oil; Dolce & Gabbana black velvet, lace, and jewel headband, and beige velvet, lace, and jewel headband; Karina bobby pins in assorted colors

The Look: The new French manicure follows just one rule: no white polish. “A classic French looks old-fashioned,” says manicurist Deborah Lippmann, who changed up the look with rounded edges and colored tips. The base shade is also fair game: At Bill Blass, nails were painted burgundy, with thin beige strips.

Seen At: Badgley Mischka, Bill Blass, Donna Karan, Thakoon

DIY: To paint a fine line, rest your elbow on a flat surface to steady the hand holding the brush. Slowly move the opposite hand’s nails under the brush (while keeping it still) for an even streak, Lippmann says. Clean up cuticles with a polish-remover pen.

A metallic shade. “A touch of gold or silver across the tip almost looks like jewelry,” says Lippmann, who painted nails a dark purple with gilded tips at Badgley Mischka.

Deborah Lippman Nail Lacquer in Dark Side of the Moon and Nefertiti; M.A.C Ruffian Manicure in Demilune; Sally Hansen Quick Care Conditioning Manicure Corrector

Re-create this season’s smoky eye with our paint-by-numbers guide

Seen At: Roberto Cavalli, by McGrath

Step 1: Dust brown shadow over the entire lid, concentrating pigment on the outer two thirds. Next, press a purple hue into the inner one third of the lid.

Step 2: Layer an emerald shade onto the center, diffusing the edges and lightly blending into the purple and brown hues.

Step 3: For definition, dab more brown shadow around the outer edge, then layer the shade along the lower lash line.

Step 4: Use a Q-tip to press a gold shadow into the inner corners. Finish by completely lining the upper and lower lash lines with black eyeliner.

The Eyeshadow Quad in Elegance and The Eyeshadow Duo in Gems, both by Dolce & Gabbana; Covergirl Liquiline Blast in Black Fire

Seen At: Prabal Gurung, by Charlotte Tilbury

Step 1: As a primer, blend a taupe cream eye shadow over the entire lid up to the brow bone and below the lower lashes.

Step 2: Lightly dust a cool brown loose shadow over the lid, concentrating intensity along the brow bone.

Step 3: Using a Q-tip, dab blue shadow into the inner corner of the eye. Use the other end of the Q-tip to apply the brown pigment along the lower lash line.

Step 4: Use a fingertip to pat blue eye shadow across the lid in an outward, angled shape, mimicking wings. Finish with a matching cerulean liner to trace hard edges, creating a defined shape.

Technakohl Liner in Smoothblue, Cream Shadow in Venetian Tarnish, Pigment in Blue Brown, and Eye Shadow in Freshwater, all by M.A.C

Seen At: Jason Wu, by Diane Kendal