seminyak is the higher end super-touristy part of bali (think W Hotel, all-inclusive resort style living), which we wanted to avoid. however, we still wanted to be able to say we saw what all the fuss was about, so we spent our last night there (it's also significantly closer to the airport than the other parts of the island we stayed). we really didn't like the scene in seminyak, but it's where merah putih is, and that alone makes it worth stopping in.

it was the last night of our amazing trip, and it was a last minute reservation (shocking, i know), but it was hands down the absolute best meal we had. it was also the only place we went that was doing elevated indonesian cuisine, not western cuisine using indonesian or balinese ingredients. i'm not saying that those places, like mozaic, didn't serve amazing, amazing food - it just felt like they underutilized the spices and flavors that we came to really love over our time in bali.

the bar/waiting room is cozy and intimate, and the dining room is cavernous and uniquely built and lit. i can't say enough good things about the food. everything was so flavorful, so fresh and beautifully spiced. the presentation was top-notch without feeling too formal. as many dishes as we ordered, i wanted to try more. i'm going to stop typing now and just let you see for yourself.

udang bumbu bali: grilled tiger prawns, tomato, torch ginger.

perkedel kepiting: soft shell crab, salted egg, corn sambal.

beef shin 'bak pao' with redang steamed buns and sambal hijau.

sate lidah: ox tongue with rice cake, fern tips and peanuts.

prawn and lobster 'pangsit': shellfish dumplings with coconut and tumeric.

chargrilled baby squid with sweetcorn, cassava and shallots.

sides of sambal (a selection of chili sambals, pickles and condiments), nasi merah puti (steamed balinese red and white rice) and kangkung (water spinach) with cherry tomaties and garlic.