Houston Chronicle LogoHearst Newspapers Logo

Three days in Santa Fe

By Updated
Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi  At the heart of Santa Fe is the plaza, and at the heart of the plaza is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis. The French Romanesque Revival-style building was built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of the original church destroyed during the Pueblo Indian revolt.
Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi 
At the heart of Santa Fe is the plaza, and at the heart of the plaza is the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis. The French Romanesque Revival-style building was built between 1869 and 1886 on the site of the original church destroyed during the Pueblo Indian revolt.
Jay Dryden | jaydrydenphoto.com

Day one: The plaza and shopping

Santa Fe's focal point is the plaza. Narrow roads lined with 17th-century adobe buildings filled with modern and classical art galleries lead into, and out of, the square. Clothing, leatherwork and jewelry also is plentiful. There's almost too much to look at. Spend the day window shopping or collecting one-of-a-kind items to decorate your home.

More Information

If you go

GETTING THERE/AROUND

Fly into Albuquerque International Airport and rent a car or take the Rail Runner train into Santa Fe. While you can get around the plaza area easily on foot, renting a car is the best way to make sure you get to see all that northern New Mexico has to offer. Destinations within an hour or two drive with excellent scenery: Bandelier, the Taos Gorge, the Jemez and more.

WHERE TO STAY

Two Casitas vacation rentals offer homes to fit any size group. Located in residential neighborhoods just off the plaza, the homes are a perfect alternative to hotels and provide all the amenities of home; twocasitas.com.

WHERE TO EAT/DRINK

Cowgirl: 319 S. Guadalupe S. This bar offers Santa Fe-style comfort food and burgers. Often, there's live music, and it's open later than most restaurants on the plaza.

Tomasita's: 500 S. Guadalupe. There's often a wait to get in this restaurant offering traditional Santa Fe enchiladas, posole and more.

The Shed: 113 E. Palace. Nestled inside a mazelike complex of rooms originally built in 1690, this restaurant gives you a taste and feel of old Santa Fe.

La Fonda on the Plaza: 100 E. San Francisco. There are several bars and a great restaurant inside this iconic hotel. The Bell Tower bar on the roof offers amazing views of the town.

Other things to know

Chile: At every meal, you will inevitably be asked: "Red or green," a reference to which kind of chile you'd like. Red chile has a smoky, earthy taste to it. Green chile is tangy and a little fruity. Both are very hot. If you'd like both, ask for "Christmas;" the waiter will know what that means. Also of note, the sopapillas, fluffy fried bread shaped like triangles, are served with the meal. Use them to sop up the chile or dip in honey.

Dress code: Santa Fe is a place where the wealthy pay extra for luxurious abodes at the end of dirt roads. You'll be as comfortable dressed up as dressed down. In fact, many people go out in a combination of both: silk and jeans, cowboy boots and diamonds. You might be tempted to don all the turquoise jewelry you've bought, but take note: locals show off a signature piece or two; tourists stand out for overdoing it.

At one edge of the plaza is the St. Francis Cathedral, built in the late 1880s. Inside, the Chapel de la Conquistadora houses the statue of Our Lady of the Rosary that a priest saved from destruction during the Pueblo Indian rebellion that evicted the Spaniards in 1680. Twelve years later, the Spaniards were invited back, and they reinstalled the Madonna in her sanctuary.

Advertisement

Article continues below this ad

The church still holds an active congregation, and you can enter the building to take a look at the French Romanesque Revival architecture. In front of the church is a labyrinth, perfect for either silent meditation or a rowdy race to the center; on each side are statues to marvel over.

On the other edge of the plaza, in front of the Palace of Governors, Native American artists line the sidewalk selling jewelry, figurines and more. A favorite figure is the Storyteller, a large seated figure with small, childlike figures sitting on it as if listening. It represents the Pueblo Indians' tradition of passing along stories through the generations. Kachina dolls, representations of the spirits the Native Americans hold sacred and fought for their right to maintain, may also be seen in the shops that surround the plaza.

There's a lot to learn about the Native American symbols and figures that catch your eye while you're browsing. Strike up a conversation with the artists and they'll be happy to explain their wares and tribal traditions.

In the center of the plaza, large shade trees and charming cast-iron benches offer a place to rest. If you're lucky, a local mariachi or rock band will be playing on the plaza stage.

Day two: Nothing but art

Advertisement

Article continues below this ad

Some of the most incredible - and most expensive - art can be found during a short stroll up Canyon Road. Start your adventure with a quick coffee or wine at the Plaza de Suenos y Milagros, (the plaza of dreams and miracles). Then walk up the hill past a huge Buddhist garden with moving sculptures and plenty of sunflowers. Statues of cowboys, Native Americans, wolves and dancing children are interspersed among more modern and abstract pieces. Nearly all are inspired by what can only be defined as "Santa Fe style."

Near the top of the road is El Farol, a restaurant and bar with dancing and live music on the weekends. This is a good spot to rest for a bit. At 7,200 feet of elevation, it's important to take it easy when exploring Santa Fe. The altitude and thin air can make physical exertion more exhausting. Some visitors from lower altitudes may experience dizziness and shortness of breath. While the wine list at El Farol is extensive and delicious, be cautious, the altitude may cause the alcohol to affect you more quickly.

Make sure you stop by some of the city's most well-known museums. Arguably the best is the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. O'Keeffe fell in love with northern New Mexico in 1929 and spent decades living and working in the state.

Another spot to visit is the New Mexican Museum of Art, located near the plaza. The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art and the Museum of International Folk Art, both of which are a short distance from the plaza, are worth seeing, as well.

Day three: Take a hike

Advertisement

Article continues below this ad

About 35 miles north of Santa Fe is Los Alamos, where the atomic bomb was created in the 1940s. Getting there means driving across some of the most beautiful landscape in the country. Mesas and mountains loom in the distance and rock formations, including one that resembles a camel, dot the sides of the highway. You'll be driving through Indian reservations, so you'll also see plenty of casinos.

A steep climb up a mountain on a winding road with a sheer drop off greets visitors to Los Alamos. This road was specifically designed to keep curious people away from the secret city.

Once you get to Los Alamos, head to Bandelier National Monument, just a few miles away. You'll have to drive through a laboratory checkpoint where you'll be warned not to stop on the side of the roads or take photos. The lab is still functioning, and many secret projects are conducted there. Its presence gives travel in this area a strange sense of intrigue.

Once inside the park, you can take as many photos as you'd like. There are hikes available for any fitness level. One of the most exciting is a hike among the caves where Pueblo Indians' built their homes centuries ago. The remnants resemble condominiums built into the cliffs. During wars or raids, the ladders would be pulled up, and the city's defenses were almost impenetrable. Ancient art, called petroglyphs, can be seen etched and painted on the walls of the cliffs.

A trip to Santa Fe means you can't escape experiencing beautiful art all around - both natural and man-made.

Advertisement

Article continues below this ad

|Updated
Photo of Francisca Ortega
Deputy Digital Editor, Chron.com / Houston Chronicle

Francisca Ortega is the Houston Chronicle's deputy digital editor for chron.com. She was born and raised in northern New Mexico. She attended the University of New Mexico and the University of California, Berkeley, where she earned degrees in journalism, Spanish and Latin American Studies.